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  • Catalogue Essay

    Orientalism saw its influence as early as the 17th century in decorative arts. Courts in Europe during that time set aside rooms and chambers specially furnished and decorated in what was known as Chinoiserie style.
    In early 20th century, the downfall of Qing dynasty resulted in dispersion of the best jadeite artefact and jewellery once prized by the rich and noble. Many of such even originated from the Qing court, but were sold and eventually transported to foreign lands. During the same time, European jewellers were mesmerized by the Far East and began expressing this interest in exotic patterns and setting actual jadeite materials in their works. This jadeite, carved with traditional gourd, lotus flower and bat motifs, very likely comes from the late Qing period. It was then re-designed as a brooch by Cartier in the 1920’s to 30’s.
    Jewellery from European masters incorporating jadeites and nephrites belongs to an important division of highly collectible vintage jewellery from the Art Deco period. This includes the illustrious Barbara Hutton jadeite bead necklace which now belongs to the Cartier Heritage Collection.

  • Artist Biography

    Cartier

    French

    With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

    Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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528

A Carved Jadeite and Diamond Brooch, Cartier

Signed Cartier

Estimate
HK$250,000 - 330,000 
$32,000-42,000

Contact Specialist
Terry Chu
Head of Jewellery, Asia, Senior Director
+852 2318 2038

Jewels & Jadeite

Hong Kong Auction 27 May 2019