







253
Cartier
Ref. 2989
Tank Cintrée
A possibly unique, elegant and special-order yellow gold curved wristwatch
Full-Cataloguing
Never officially published in literature, the present watch was made in the early 2000s. It is possibly unique and definitely a special-order timepiece. During the period, the regular production version of the Cintrée was a limited edition of 150 pieces in yellow gold, followed by another run of 50 in platinum. Both versions had a smooth, opaline dial with Arabic numerals and a "chemin de fer" minute track.
While similar in appearance to the 2021 re-release of the Tank Cintrée, the present watch has a guilloché dial with a rosette centre, a defining feature of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris. There is no other publicly-known Tank Cintree with a guilloche, CPCP-style dial.
Moreover, this particular example has a case back secured by eight screws, differing from the standard gold model. Additionally, it contains the calibre 9770MC, which was otherwise only found in the platinum versions. The unusual combination of dial, case material, case type, and movement makes this example almost certainly a one-off in both design as well as construction.
Cartier has historically made very few special-order timepieces, and these were usually allocated to their very best customers. To discover one previously unknown in literature is an honour indeed.
Cartier
FrenchWith the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.
Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open.