Cartier - The Geneva Watch Auction: XV Geneva Saturday, May 7, 2022 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Cartier
    Year: Circa 1999
    Reference No: 2989
    Case No: 10077LX
    Model Name: Tank Cintrée
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Manual, cal. 9770 MC, 18 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 23mm width x 45mm length
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Cartier service invoice dated December 17, 2019 for completed servicing, and product literature.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Introduced in 1921, the 9-ligne Grand Tank Cintrée was the largest and boldest variation of Cartier’s signature Tank model. With its long, slender case personified by a graceful arch, the Cintrée is without a doubt one of the most beautiful watches made during the 20th century. Measuring a dramatic 46.5 mm long by 23 mm wide, the Cintrée’s highly curved case was designed to hug the wrist. The expansive dial and case combine straight lines, sensual curves, and crisp angles, resulting in a ‘modern’ wristwatch with a design far ahead of its time - so much so, in fact, that the design has spawned multiple re-editions; the latest one, just released in 2021, being a virtually perfect replica of the vintage model here exemplified.

    Never officially published in literature, the present watch was made in the early 2000s. It is possibly unique and definitely a special-order timepiece. During the period, the regular production version of the Cintrée was a limited edition of 150 pieces in yellow gold, followed by another run of 50 in platinum. Both versions had a smooth, opaline dial with Arabic numerals and a "chemin de fer" minute track.

    While similar in appearance to the 2021 re-release of the Tank Cintrée, the present watch has a guilloché dial with a rosette centre, a defining feature of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris. There is no other publicly-known Tank Cintree with a guilloche, CPCP-style dial.

    Moreover, this particular example has a case back secured by eight screws, differing from the standard gold model. Additionally, it contains the calibre 9770MC, which was otherwise only found in the platinum versions. The unusual combination of dial, case material, case type, and movement makes this example almost certainly a one-off in both design as well as construction.

    Cartier has historically made very few special-order timepieces, and these were usually allocated to their very best customers. To discover one previously unknown in literature is an honour indeed.

  • Artist Biography

    Cartier

    French

    With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

    Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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Ref. 2989
A possibly unique, elegant and special-order yellow gold curved wristwatch

Circa 1999
23mm width x 45mm length
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate
CHF30,000 - 60,000 
€29,500-58,900
$31,900-63,700

Sold for CHF100,800

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

+41 22 317 81 81
[email protected]

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 22 317 96 63
[email protected]

The Geneva Watch Auction: XV

Geneva Auction 7 - 8 May 2022