Manufacturer: Cartier Year: 1972 Reference No: 71 Movement No: 55'080, further stamped 02460 behind the dial Case No: 970'510'500 Model Name: Square Material: 18k white gold Calibre: Automatic, cal. 97B, 17 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Alligator Clasp/Buckle: 18k white gold Cartier folding clasp Dimensions: 29 x 38.5 mm. Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Catalogue Essay
This oversized and unusual cushion-shaped Cartier has been given the charming nickname, “TV screen”, because of its shape resembling a television screen. Produced in the 1970s this watch features an impressively large case that houses a self-winding movement. With its Roman numeral hour markers, blued steel hands, and sapphire-set winding crown, it is unmistakably identifiable as a Cartier – even from across a room.
The vast majority of these charismatic timepieces were created in yellow gold, making this white gold example extremely rare. The present lot is offered in overall excellent condition, and is even fitted with its original, white gold Cartier deployant clasp.
With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.
Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open.