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  • Catalogue Essay

    What is now widely known as ‘Bulgari style’ was established during the post-war years, beginning with the lavish use of large gemstones in audacious colour combinations within voluptuous and highly dimensional designs. At that point, instead of gemstones’ intrinsic value, design focus was shifted towards the impact of a piece. Yellow gold continued to be the preferred metal choice, highlighting the Italian sensuality with a strong influence from Renaissance and Etruscan art. On this brooch from 1960’s, the paler tones of sapphire were paired with saturated ruby cabochons to evoke a unique sense of harmony and boldness, characteristic of Bulgari’s quintessential style.

  • Artist Biography

    Bulgari

    Italian

    Originally from Kalarites, Greece, Sotirios Voulgaris emigrated to Rome because of Greece's rising poverty and difficulty separating from the Ottoman Empire. He set foot on Italian soil in 1880 with little money in his pocket and spent the next four years preparing what would go on to become Italy's oldest jewelry company. 

    In 1884, Bulgari opened its doors to the Italian people with its offering of jewelry and accessories. Bulgari's style takes from traditions in Greek and Roman craftsmanship to elegantly balance volume and subtlety. Later, in the late 1960s, Bulgari bridged classicism and modernity by introducing its seductive, now-iconic Serpenti collection of snake-shaped coil bracelets and watches. It is through its meticulous combination of influences that Bulgari has garnered an international and loyal high-profile clientele, which included Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn. These Hollywood stars have immortalized the house's unique gem-adorned bracelets, necklaces and earrings in rounded forms. 

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622

A Retro Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond Brooch, Bulgari, Circa 1958

Estimate
HK$350,000 - 430,000 
$45,000-55,000

Contact Specialist
Terry Chu
Head of Jewellery, Asia, Senior Director
+852 2318 2038

Jewels & Jadeite

Hong Kong Auction 27 May 2019