Manufacturer: Breguet Year: 1963 Case No: 1613 Material: Stainless steel Calibre: Automatic, cal. AS 1581, 17 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Tropic Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel pin buckle Dimensions: 37mm Diameter Signed: Case numbered, dial signed Accessories: Accompanied by Breguet Certificate confirming production of the present watch in 1963 and its subsequent sale on July 10, 1964
Catalogue Essay
A unicorn would be the best word to describe this elusive and alluring Breguet divers’ watch.
Most notably known for its elegant timepieces with guilloché dials or the adventure laden Type XX pilot chronographs made originally for the French navy, Breguet nevertheless dipped its horological toe in the deep waters of diving instruments in the mid 1960s.
One of the rarest dive watches to be produced regardless of brand, the present timepiece presents all the design elements of vintage dive watches, such as a rotating Backelite bezel, no crown guards, straight lugs and large luminous indexes for ease of underwater legibility.
Scholarship indicates that Breguet made less than 60 dive watches such as the present model with varying dial designs including a version with smaller indexes and another with Arabic numerals. It is always with a sense of exaltation that one discovers a timepiece unknown to the market. The present Breguet diver's watch is only the fourth to ever grace the rooms of an international auction house. We are delighted to offer you this extraordinary example.
Preserved in superb condition with a strong case, delightful Bakelite bezel and impeccable dial, the present lot lures us by its unique position in the Breguet creations and by its complete idiosyncrasy making it one of the rarest and most desirable of dive watches and as such a must have in any collection of rare vintage timepieces.
Established in 1775 by Abraham Louis Breguet, widely considered the greatest watchmaker of all time, the storied brand continues to thrive in the modern era, creating exceptional high-end watches as the Swatch Group's premier prestige brand. Some of the most important and lasting inventions in watchmaking are attributed to Abraham Louis Breguet, including the tourbillon, shock resistance and the use of hammers and gongs employed in nearly all minute repeating watches made since.
Eighteenth and nineteenth century Breguet pocketwatches are especially sought-after by collectors, and many of them were made for the elite of European society, including Napoléon and Marie Antoinette. Key wristwatches from the twentieth century include oversized dress watches, two-register chronographs, triple calendars and Type XX aviator's chronographs made for the French military and civilians.