Breguet - START-STOP-RESET: 88 Epic Stainless Steel Chronographs Geneva Friday, May 13, 2016 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Breguet
    Year: 1962
    Case No: 1046
    Model Name: “Type XX”
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Manual, cal. 225, 17 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel buckle
    Dimensions: 38.5mm diameter
    Signed: Dial signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    The widely-acclaimed Type XX military chronographs began production in the 1950s. The “type” designation was not a model specific to any one brand, but was actually a military specification commissioned by the French Government.

    The requirement was for a multi-purpose wristwatch, suitable for both aviation and aerial navigation. The fly-back function was a necessity, as it quickly allows the user to reset and restart the chronograph all from the single push of a button on the case. The black dial on the present watch features three subsidiary dials, a robust 38.5mm case and rotating bezel. As the timepiece was originally intended for military purposes, it was fitted with luminous Arabic hour markers and hands for quick and easy readability also in darkness.

    The model and specification evolved over time, and ultimately, the watches became too expensive for the French Government, and Breguet instead opted to sell them as commercial watches. Flying as a hobby gained increasing popularity at the same time, it would not come as a surprise if the robust and most practical construction of the Type XX was also the preferred choice of civil pilots.

    This example is an outstanding representation of an issued 1960s Breguet, and one that will provide enduring value to the savvy collector.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1775

    Established in 1775 by Abraham Louis Breguet, widely considered the greatest watchmaker of all time, the storied brand continues to thrive in the modern era, creating exceptional high-end watches as the Swatch Group's premier prestige brand. Some of the most important and lasting inventions in watchmaking are attributed to Abraham Louis Breguet, including the tourbillon, shock resistance and the use of hammers and gongs employed in nearly all minute repeating watches made since.

    Eighteenth and nineteenth century Breguet pocketwatches are especially sought-after by collectors, and many of them were made for the elite of European society, including Napoléon and Marie Antoinette. Key wristwatches from the twentieth century include oversized dress watches, two-register chronographs, triple calendars and Type XX aviator's chronographs made for the French military and civilians.

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A very attractive and extremely rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with black dial and rotating bezel.

38.5mm diameter
Dial signed

CHF15,000 - 30,000 

Sold for CHF30,000

Contact Specialist
Livia Russo
+41 22 317 81 86

START-STOP-RESET: 88 Epic Stainless Steel Chronographs

Geneva Auction 14 May 2016