Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet Year: 1974 Reference No: 5402ST Case No: A431 Model Name: Royal Oak “A-Series” Material: Stainless steel Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max overall length 185mm Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp Dimensions: 39mm Diameter Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Catalogue Essay
Launched in 1972, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak was the world’s first stainless steel luxury sports watch with a fully integrated bracelet. Designed overnight in response to an urgent request for an ‘unprecedented steel watch’, it was at the same time the most expensive stainless steel watch ever made. Today the Royal Oak is a legend, accounting for over 75% of the brand’s sales. Audemars Piguet hired famed designer Gerald Genta, who developed a brilliantly engineered, monobloc case, with a distinctively maritime feel, featuring an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal, white gold screws, and a dial with tapisserie motif. It most notably housed the extra slim caliber 2121 based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920, that would later be used in Patek Philippe’s Nautilus wristwatch. Production of the reference 5402 spanned 25 years, with a total of 6,050 examples manufactured, in four different batches: A, B, C and D with small design details that made each slightly different.
The ‘A’ series Royal Oak models feature the distinctive ‘AP’ logo positioned at 6 o’clock, with later “Jumbo” models having the brand logo at the 12 o’clock position. This superb A-series Royal Oak wristwatch from 1974, number A431, is a charismatic example. The case is well-preserved having been recently restored by Audemars Piguet, while the original dial is beautifully aged with the hands and luminous hour markers having acquired an attractive, light yellowish hue.
Today, the Royal Oak remains as iconic as ever with early examples being exceedingly popular and collectible.
A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.
Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.