Audemars Piguet - The New York Watch Auction: NINE New York Saturday, December 9, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1994
    Reference No: 25636BA/944
    Movement No: 347’125
    Case No: No. 148; C94’845
    Model Name: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2120/4, 38 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, approximately 195mm overall length
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
    Accessories: Accompanied by original Audemars Piguet Certificate of Origin and Guarantee dated February 24th, 1994, setting pin, hang tag, and instruction manual. Further accompanied by Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives.

  • Catalogue Essay

    In 1984, twelve years after the unprecedented launch of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet further railed against the changes brought by the quartz crisis and released the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. It was no easy feat to fit an automatic caliber with perpetual calendar and moon phases, within a case measuring only 8.8mm in thickness.

    The brand would soon introduce a new design aesthetic, offering the Royal Oak perpetual with skeletonized dials and movements, which were virtually non-existent on wristwatches in the 1980s. These fully skeletonized watches allowed for a breathtaking view of the movement from both the front and back. They exemplified the very best of Swiss watchmaking, where non-essential metal from all the movements’ plates and bridges were removed, and all remaining “skeletal” parts were hand-engraved and finished.

    According to Audemars Piguet, 156 pieces in yellow gold were produced between 1986 and 1997, with only 10 examples leaving the factory in 1994. In total for the reference, 313 pieces were produced across all materials. It was the first Royal Oak reference to feature a sapphire caseback, displaying for the first time the spectacular hand-engraved movement. The contrasting colors of the movement parts – some steel, some gold-plated, some solid gold – allow for a beautiful contrast below the sapphire dial, with the champagne subdial rings floating above. Impressively, the present reference 25636 retains its original guarantee booklet, indicating the watch was sold on February 24th, 1994.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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154

Ref. 25636BA/944
An exceptional and desirable yellow gold skeletonized perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases, bracelet, and guarantee booklet

1994
39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate
$100,000 - 200,000 
CHF90,100-180,000
€93,600-187,000
HK$781,000-1,560,000
S$136,000-272,000

Sold for $203,200

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Deputy Chairman and Head of Watches, Americas
+1 (212) 940-1293
WatchesNY@Phillips.com
 
Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, New York
+1 (212) 940 1285
iproia@phillips.com

The New York Watch Auction: NINE

New York Auction 9 - 10 December 2023