Audemars Piguet - The New York Watch Auction: NINE New York Saturday, December 9, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: Circa 1978
    Reference No: 5402BA
    Case No: No. 64
    Model Name: Royal Oak “Jumbo”
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet bracelet
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak reference 5402 was originally introduced at Basel Fair in 1972. Revolutionary and disruptive, the Royal Oak redefined the meaning of a luxury timepiece with the use of stainless steel. Featuring a monobloc case with a distinctively maritime feel, an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal, white gold screws, and a dial with tapisserie motif. Marketing materials at the time would often feature two friends discussing the watch, and one would remark to the other, “a price like that – and they don’t conceal the screws?”

    In 1977, the model was made available for the first time in precious materials: yellow gold, white gold, and steel and yellow gold. The reference 5402BA in yellow gold, like the present example, was produced in a total of 736 units, sold between 1977 and 1980. According to Audemars Piguet, the initial production run of yellow gold Royal Oaks was hit or miss depending on the geographical location. The United States, which previously had accounted for 8% of the steel Royal Oak production, ordered a third of all yellow gold examples. Asia was similarly keen, while on the contrary Italy – a previous mainstay in the market for Royal Oaks – only purchased six individual precious metal Royal Oaks.

    Cased at 39mm in diameter, the Royal Oak sits extremely comfortably on the wrist with a sumptuous heftiness coming from the yellow gold case and bracelet. Produced only for three years, the present example with the early case serial number of 64, radiates an exquisite sheen from the yellow gold bracelet and contrasting anthracite grey dial.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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153

Ref. 5402BA
An appealing and rare yellow gold wristwatch with date and bracelet

Circa 1978
39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate
$40,000 - 80,000 
CHF35,500-70,900
€36,800-73,600
HK$312,000-624,000
S$53,800-108,000

Sold for $82,550

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Deputy Chairman and Head of Watches, Americas
+1 (212) 940-1293
WatchesNY@Phillips.com
 
Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, New York
+1 (212) 940 1285
iproia@phillips.com

The New York Watch Auction: NINE

New York Auction 9 - 10 December 2023