Audemars Piguet - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX Hong Kong Saturday, November 23, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: Circa 1978
    Reference No: 5402
    Case No: C 1968
    Model Name: Royal Oak “Jumbo C Series”
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 180mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak reference 5402 undeniably holds a significant place in horological history, having pioneered the luxury sports watch category when it was created by Gérald Genta. As the first model in the Royal Oak collection, this reference recently celebrated its 50th anniversary and embodies the essence of the entire collection through its rich heritage.

    While most Royal Oak Jumbo dials feature the "AP" logo at the 6 o'clock position, this particular dial showcases the logo at 12 o'clock, replacing the hour index. Audemars Piguet restorers explain that over time, certain watch hands can rub against or even collide with the applied logo at 6 o'clock, potentially causing the watch to stop. It is important to note that the distance between the hands and the logo is merely a few hundredths of a millimeter.

    To address this issue, Audemars Piguet watchmakers initially bent the hands manually, performing a delicate operation that involved creating two tiny, inverted Z-shaped bends to elevate the hands just enough to avoid contact with the logo or the crystal, and to ensure they did not touch each other. However, to provide a permanent solution, Audemars Piguet decided on February 24, 1977, to relocate the logo to the 12 o'clock position, allowing sufficient space for the movement of the hour hand. Given the variations across the entire reference, it is estimated that only a maximum of 16% have the AP monogram at the 12 o'clock position.

    In the world of vintage watches, condition is key. The present example features a well-preserved case that remains sharp to the touch with pleasing proportions. The dial has developed an attractive consistent brown “tropical effect”, and the dark caramel-colored luminescent markers further add to its allure. As each dial ages uniquely, few can match this condition. According to Audemars Piguet, the last C series number is C 1973, making the current example, numbered C 1968, one of the last watches in the C series line.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Ref. 5402
A very attractive, well-preserved and rare stainless steel wristwatch with “tropical” dial, date and bracelet

Circa 1978
39mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$400,000 - 640,000 
€46,800-74,900
$51,300-82,100

Sold for HK$508,000

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2030
WatchesHK@phillips.com
 

Gertrude Wong
Head of Sale, Hong Kong
+852 2318 2045
gertrudewong@phillips.com
 

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX

Hong Kong Auction 23 - 24 November 2024