Audemars Piguet - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV Hong Kong Friday, May 27, 2022 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1986
    Reference No: 25554BA
    Movement No: 286’042
    Case No: C19’532, No. 249
    Model Name: Royal Oak Perpetual calendar
    Material: 18k yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2120/2800, 38 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 185mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold and yellow gold Audemars Piguet folding clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet setting pin. Further delivered with Audermars Piguet Extract from the Archives confirming the date of register of the present timepiece on 8th July 1986.

  • Catalogue Essay

    This year marks the important event of the Royal Oak being half a century old, and collectors have reflected on the importance of commemorating one of the most exciting, charming and cherished models the firm has ever introduced.

    First introduced as a time only luxury sports watch in steel with an integrated bracelet in 1972, the ingenious design was of the great and late Gerald Genta. An unusual release at the time during the peak of the quartz crisis, it commanded a higher price than a gold watch. However, the firm’s vision behind Genta’s ingenuity would prevail soon to come as the true pioneers behind the boom of the luxury sports wristwatch.

    The first production of Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was launched in 1984. With the forward-thinking approach from the Managing Director George Golay fitting the thin workhorse caliber 2120/2800 into the Royal Oak case, making it one of the world thinnest automatic perpetual calendar watch.

    The very first of them that was serially produced was the ref. 25554 and was made only in scarce quantities an estimated 279 examples across all metals including yellow gold, stainless steel and platinum.

    The present example Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 25554BA with a MK I dial is one of the earliest examples to appear at auction featuring a C19 serial case with batch no. 249. Its dial of the earliest featuring three gold dotted indexes at 3, 9 and 12 o’clock and its small signature under the moon phase, it is further blessed with its state of preservation, boasting a crisp case with defined edges and an attractive layer of patina on the case indicating its prolonged period of inactivity.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Property from the Original Owner


Ref. 25554BA
An extremely fine, outstandingly well-preserved and one of the earliest yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with MK I dial, moon phases and integrated bracelet

39mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

HK$500,000 - 1,000,000 

Sold for HK$1,197,000

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia 
+852 2318 2031

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIV

Hong Kong Auction 27 - 28 May 2022