Audemars Piguet - The Geneva Watch Auction: XVI Geneva Saturday, November 5, 2022 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1997
    Reference No: 25820TA
    Movement No: 396'957
    Case No: D80583.007
    Model Name: Royal Oak
    Material: Tantalum and 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2120/2802, 38 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Tantalum and 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 195mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Tantalum and 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Certificate of Origin dated October 1997, service invoice, product literature, hang tag and rotating winding box.

  • Catalogue Essay

    A new Royal Oak perpetual calendar model featuring this time a leap year indicator, reference 25820 was launched in 1996 and in production until 2013. A total of 1235 examples were made with only 15 pieces in the present yellow gold/tantalum livery.

    Whereas for the past few years we have seen the dramatic rise in the use of different traditional and exotic materials in watchmaking, consequently kudos should be given to Audemars Piguet for their pioneering mix of yellow gold and tantalum present in this Royal Oak openwork perpetual calendar made 25 years ago in 1997.

    The Royal Oak has always been a blank canvas on which Audemars Piguet has been experimenting for the past 50 years. The present reference 25820TA merges Audemars Piguet's technical know how - the perpetual calendar - with artistic flair- the openworked movement. This allows for a breathtaking view of the beautiful architecture of the perpetual calendar module which is often hidden beneath a solid dial.

    However, with the present piece Audemars Piguet pushed the boundaries of creativity one step beyond by creating a case made of traditional yellow gold and avant-garde tantalum creating an incredibly graphic result. Tantalum is named after the “Torment of Tantalus” from Greek mythology because it is a rare, hard and lustrous metal that is highly corrosion-resistant. Its grey-bluish hues perfectly complement the steel openwork elements and contrast vibrantly against the yellow gold elements. According to our research, it seems that the original owner had the original solid dial replaced by the current and most appealing openworked dial.

    The outer rings of the subsidiary dials and outer track are also champagne in color matching the yellow gold elements.

    The present timepiece was born with a solid dial but it seems that the original owner requested, and obtained, a swap for an openwork dial. A swap that was far from uncommon at the time.

    The present reference 25820TA is not only in incredibly attractive condition but comes with its full set of accessories and carries the "Bondian" number 007 of a very exclusive limited edition of only 15 pieces.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Ref. 25820TA
An extremely rare tantalum and yellow gold limited edition openworked perpetual calendar wristwatch with box and certificate of origin, number 7 of a limited edition of 15 pieces

39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

CHF100,000 - 200,000 

Sold for CHF170,100

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East
+41 22 317 81 81

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva
+41 22 317 96 63

The Geneva Watch Auction: XVI

Geneva Auction 5 - 6 November 2022