Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet Year: Circa 1975 Reference No: 5402 Movement No: 146'855 Case No: A1394 Model Name: Royal Oak Material: Stainless steel Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet stamped A394 to the endlinks Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp Dimensions: 39mm Diameter Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed Accessories: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Certificat d'Authenticité confirming production of the present watch, its subsequent sale on May 12, 1974 and the service it underwent in 2015 during which the dial was restored and the hands changed.
Catalogue Essay
1972 is a landmark year in the history of watchmaking. At Baselworld an entirely new watch concept is presented in an effort to save mechanical watchmaking from the advance of cheap quartz watches. A luxury sports watch made in steel, and prices close to gold evening dress watches, is presented: the Royal oak. Designed by Gerald Genta and inspired by nautical themes, it is met with lukewarm enthusiasm - to say the least - by the community: “who in their right mind” is the general sentiment at Baselworld 1972 - would pay as much as a gold dress watch for a steel sport’s watch? As we know know very well, the answer to this question is “an entire new generation of collectors”. The new design in fact appeals to a younger crowd of successful dynamic entrepreneurs, and the rest is history.
The present example - a representative of the famed A-series: the first batch of production of the model - is an opportunity for the collector to acquire a 5204 which has been brought back to its original glory by the manufacturer itself. The case is as flawless as it was when the watch was brand new, featuring extremely sharp corners and immaculate satin finish. The dial has - on demand of the client - not been exchanged for a service one, but rather Audemars Piguet restored the original dial completely, including graphics and finish. this treatment resulted in a dial color quite different from what the collector is used to seeing on a 5204 dial: the blue is closer to navy than to petrol, rendering this watch a practically unique pieces, merging a more modern dial color with the timeless class of the original Royal Oak 5204.
Phillips wishes to warmly thank scholar Marco "Mstanga" Stanghellini for his invaluable assistance in researching this timepiece.
A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.
Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.
