A very fine and rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with “tropical” dial, faded bezel, date and bracelet

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  • Condition Report

  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1970
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: D 904’634
    Case No: 2’292’687
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “93150”, endlinks stamped “580”, max length 200mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 40mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    The reference 1680 is Rolex’s first Submariner model to feature a date window. The present early specimen features a Mark II dial, recognizable from the meter first arrangement of the depth rating, a feature shared by Mark I to Mark III dials. Mark II dials are furthermore defined by the very thin font used for the depth rating. Mark II (and also Mark III) dials can be found on examples from about 2.15M to 2.45M serial. The present ref. 1680 features an exotic "tropical" dial and an exhilarating faded bezel which is an added element of attraction for vintage Rolex enthusiasts.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

    View More Works

959

Rolex

Ref. 1680
A very fine and rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with “tropical” dial, faded bezel, date and bracelet

勞力士,「Submariner」型號1680,精細及罕有,精鋼自動上弦鏈帶腕錶,配日期和「Tropical」棕色錶盤,1970年製

1970
40mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
HK$235,000 - 390,000 
€26,500-44,000
$30,100-50,000

Place Advance Bid
Contact Specialist
Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
thomasperazzi@phillips.com
+852 2318 2030

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: EIGHT

Hong Kong Auction 28 May 2019