A rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with black lacquer dial and "Big Logo" bracelet

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  • Condition Report

  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1960
    Reference No: 5508 inside caseback stamp III.1958
    Case No: 400'096
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: Stainless Steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1530, 25 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel riveted Rolex "Big Logo" bracelet, reference 6636, end links stamped 80, max length 200mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex "Big Logo" deployant clasp stamped 4.59
    Dimensions: 37.5mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    The history of the "no crown guard" Submariner is marked by several milestones. Launched in 1953, the very first serially produced Submariner wristwatch carried the designated reference 6204. Displaying pencil hands and luminous numerals, it was an incredibly important aid for dives. Rolex eventually developed other "small crown" models, such as references 6205, 6536/6538, 6536 and 6536/1, while references 6200, 6538 and 5510 were fitted with a "large" crown. Reference 5508 was the last Submariner to carry the "100m=330ft" depth rating.

    In production from 1957 until the early 1960s, reference 5508 is known as the "James Bond" Submariner in the collecting community. This particular example is very well-preserved over time. The case is in excellent condition with sharp bevels and crisp edges. Furthermore, the inside case back is stamped III.1958, which is correct. This timepiece comes with a "Big Logo" Rolex bracelet, which is particularly beloved by collectors today.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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155

Rolex

Ref. 5508 inside caseback stamp III.1958
A rare and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with black lacquer dial and "Big Logo" bracelet

Circa 1960
37.5mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF10,000 - 15,000 
€8,900-13,400
$10,100-15,100

Place Advance Bid

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Sale
+ 41 79 637 1724
aghotbi@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: NINE

Geneva Auction 11-12 May 2019