A Carved Jadeite and Diamond Brooch, Cartier

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  • Condition Report

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    • A jadeite carved with hulu, lotus flower and a bat, measuring approximately 41.50 x 28.33 x 11.55mm

    • Embellished by tapered baguette and circular-cut diamonds

    • Platinum

    • Signed Cartier

    (Jadeite Carving)
    Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory report, numbered KJ99908, dated 14 March 2019, Type A Jadeite, natural colour without any resin.

    附 香港玉石鑑定中心 證書

    With a Cartier fitted box

  • Catalogue Essay

    Orientalism saw its influence as early as the 17th century in decorative arts. Courts in Europe during that time set aside rooms and chambers specially furnished and decorated in what was known as Chinoiserie style.
    In early 20th century, the downfall of Qing dynasty resulted in dispersion of the best jadeite artefact and jewellery once prized by the rich and noble. Many of such even originated from the Qing court, but were sold and eventually transported to foreign lands. During the same time, European jewellers were mesmerized by the Far East and began expressing this interest in exotic patterns and setting actual jadeite materials in their works. This jadeite, carved with traditional gourd, lotus flower and bat motifs, very likely comes from the late Qing period. It was then re-designed as a brooch by Cartier in the 1920’s to 30’s.
    Jewellery from European masters incorporating jadeites and nephrites belongs to an important division of highly collectible vintage jewellery from the Art Deco period. This includes the illustrious Barbara Hutton jadeite bead necklace which now belongs to the Cartier Heritage Collection.

  • Catalogue Essay

    西方對遠東的迷思可追溯到十七世紀,當時歐洲各國對一切來自東方的事物趨之若鶩,宮廷更會設置充滿中式藝術風格的房間,並引入中式屏風、瓷器、傢俱等。
    而在上世紀初,清朝沒落,大量宮中翡翠珍品流落民間,權貴亦變賣家中珍寶,導致不少頂級翡翠散落各地,或輾轉傳往西方國家。歐洲珠寶商其時對東方文化藝術的探究亦處於巔峰狀態,除了運用東方的圖案花紋作為設計靈感,更會直接將東方的素材和物料注入作品之中。這個別針上的翡翠雕件刻有傳統的葫蘆、荷花及蝙蝠題材,相信來自清末,約在20至30年代由卡地亞重新演繹,加上白鑽改鑲成別針。
    這種出自歐洲大師之手並鑲有翡翠或軟玉的珠寶展現出裝飾藝術年代專屬的風格,昇華東西揉合之精神,令古董珠寶收藏家愛不釋手,現為卡地亞珍藏的芭芭拉赫頓翡翠珠項鏈亦屬此列,歷經百年卻韻味猶存,絕對算得上是非一般的珠寶收藏品。

  • Maker Bio

    Cartier

    French

    With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

    Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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Cartier

A Carved Jadeite and Diamond Brooch, Cartier

天然翡翠配鑽石別針, 卡地亞

Estimate
HK$250,000 - 330,000 
$32,000-42,000

Place Advance Bid
Contact Specialist
Terry Chu
Head of Jewellery, Asia, Senior Director
+852 2318 2038

Jewels and Jadeite

Hong Kong Auction 27 May 2019