A Retro Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond Brooch, Bulgari, Circa 1958

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  • Condition Report

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    • Set with twelve step-cut sapphires in two tiers, totalling approximately 34.50 carats

    • Decorated by circular-cut rubies and diamonds, approximately 4.50 and 3.80 carats respectively

    • 18 karat yellow gold

    • Unsigned

  • (Rubies, based on random-testing) GIA report, numbered 2326388617, dated 4 April 2019, Burma, no indications of heating.
    (Sapphires, based on random-testing) GIA report, numbered 6325388632, dated 4 April 2019, Sri Lanka, no indications of heating.

  • With a Bulgari Certificate of Authenticity, numbered RM/0008

  • Catalogue Essay

    What is now widely known as ‘Bulgari style’ was established during the post-war years, beginning with the lavish use of large gemstones in audacious colour combinations within voluptuous and highly dimensional designs. At that point, instead of gemstones’ intrinsic value, design focus was shifted towards the impact of a piece. Yellow gold continued to be the preferred metal choice, highlighting the Italian sensuality with a strong influence from Renaissance and Etruscan art. On this brooch from 1960’s, the paler tones of sapphire were paired with saturated ruby cabochons to evoke a unique sense of harmony and boldness, characteristic of Bulgari’s quintessential style.

  • Catalogue Essay


  • Maker Bio



    Originally from Kalarites, Greece, Sotirios Voulgaris emigrated to Rome because of Greece's rising poverty and difficulty separating from the Ottoman Empire. He set foot on Italian soil in 1880 with little money in his pocket and spent the next four years preparing what would go on to become Italy's oldest jewelry company. 

    In 1884, Bulgari opened its doors to the Italian people with its offering of jewelry and accessories. Bulgari's style takes from traditions in Greek and Roman craftsmanship to elegantly balance volume and subtlety. Later, in the late 1960s, Bulgari bridged classicism and modernity by introducing its seductive, now-iconic Serpenti collection of snake-shaped coil bracelets and watches. It is through its meticulous combination of influences that Bulgari has garnered an international and loyal high-profile clientele, which included Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn. These Hollywood stars have immortalized the house's unique gem-adorned bracelets, necklaces and earrings in rounded forms. 

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A Retro Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond Brooch, Bulgari, Circa 1958

Retro「緬甸」天然紅寶石, 「斯里蘭卡」天然藍寶石 及 鑽石別針, 寶格麗, 約1958年, 紅藍寶石未經加熱處理

HK$350,000 - 430,000 

Place Advance Bid
Contact Specialist
Terry Chu
Head of Jewellery, Asia, Senior Director
+852 2318 2038

Jewels and Jadeite

Hong Kong Auction 27 May 2019