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935Σ

Urban Jürgensen

Ref. 2, limited edition no. 009

A very rare and fine pink gold limited edition automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases

Estimate
HK$120,000 - 160,000
€13,100 - 17,400
$15,000 - 20,000
HK$150,000
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Urban Jürgensen
Year
Circa 1989
Reference No
2, limited edition no. 009
Movement No
09-50
Case No
4276
Material
18k pink gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. FP71, 35 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Blue crocodile strap
Clasp/Buckle
18kpink gold <em>Urban Jurgensen</em> buckle
Dimensions
38 mm. diam.
Signed
<em>Case, dial and movement signed</em>
Accessories
With <em>Urban Jürgensen</em> Extract from the Archives dated February 10, 2017 confirming production of the present watch with solid silver guilloché dial with Roman Numerals #009, round case and teardrop lugs in 1989.
Catalogue Essay
An outstanding example of Urban Jürgensen's mastery of the craft, the present limited edition timepiece is a spectacularly elegant execution of one of the most classic high complications in watchmaking: the combination of a perpetual calendar with moon phases. A true work of ineffable craftsmanship, both the dial and the case designs are reminiscent of pieces from the first half of the past century. The teardrop lugs add a hint of nostalgic playfulness to the round case, defined otherwise by the rounded stepping of the bezel. The dial, however, is the undisputed protagonist of this wristwatch. Aesthetically, it can be considered a pinnacle of elegance: the satin outer track with Roman numerals and simple minute divisions frames the clean guilloché center. The indication for day, date, month and moon phases are symmetrically placed: the windows for day and month horizontally; the subdials for moon phases and date vertically. Subtle aesthetic details, at first glance easily missed, work behind the scenes to achieve the final effect: the windows do not feature simply sloped sides, but are furthermore recessed inside the dial. The subsidiary dials feature at their inside a different guilloché than the dial center. Such a remarkable dial is even more impressive when considered that it is actually a solid silver plate, instead of a silvered gold plate - much more ductile and easy to work with. The amount of craftsmanship involved in the multiple engine-turnings of this dial is nothing short of awe-inspiring. As a matter of fact, the master artisan is not allowed to pause during the execution of the engine turning, as even the subtlest difference in the environmental condition or in the constant pressure applied during the process can produce a slightly different result. This would lead to two different finishes for two different areas of the dial, which wold ultimately force the maker to discard the plate and start from the beginning.

Urban Jürgensen

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