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120

Rolex

Ref. 6100

Oyster Perpetual, “La Caravelle”

An impressive, extremely rare, and well-preserved yellow gold wristwatch with cloisonné enamel dial depicting “La Caravelle” and center seconds

Estimate
$200,000 - 400,000
$889,000
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Rolex
Year
Circa 1952
Reference No
6100
Movement No
49’438, F78377
Case No
892’586
Model Name
Oyster Perpetual, “La Caravelle”
Material
18K yellow gold
Calibre
Automatic, cal. 645, 18 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
18K yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet, stamped 8BK, max overall length 205mm
Clasp/Buckle
18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 52.2
Dimensions
34mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed.
Catalogue Essay
Phillips is honoured to offer the present, previously unknown Rolex reference 6100 “Caravelle”, an important and highly attractive example of cloisonné enamel craftsmanship.

Cloisonné enamel is considered one of the finest and most complex dial fabrication techniques in haute horologerie. Fine gold wires are first placed on a metal bases to define the subject of the enamel. The sections created with the wire are then filled with powdered enamel colored by metal oxides and fired, which then solidifies the enamel, resulting in a beautiful work of art. Given the hand workmanship for each dial, no two dials are exactly alike with each considered unique.

Compared with modern enamel, vintage enamel dials feature vibrant colors that are especially deep, glossy, and translucent. The skilled artisans who created these exceptional scenes worked with mercury, lead and cyanide, which in the 1940s and 50s were not known for their dangerous health effects, but were subsequently banned by governments. Due to their cost and the limited number of skilled artisans capable of such work, cloisonné enamel dials were made in small numbers and very few were sold during the mid-20th century.

Rolex and Patek Philippe are known for offering the rarest and most important cloisonné enamel dials found in the market. The skilled craftsmanship required is legendary and highly sought after by collectors. The present reference 6100 with “Caravelle” dial is a wonderful representation of this artistic endeavour and is adorned with a spectacular cloisonné dial made by one of Geneva’s most acclaimed enamellers, Mrs. Marguerite Koch, who worked with Stern to produce some of the most sought after Rolex watches to date.

The dial depicts a multi-coloured sailing vessel “Caravelle” on a blue green sea, topped with faceted baton hour markers, highlighted by applied gilt stars in the sky and outer pearl-like minute markers. The dial, made by Stern Frères, is inscribed on the back with the numbers 103*389 (No. 103 relating to the company, or client who commissioned the dial from Stern - Rolex in this instance), and a code, No. 29, specific for the design of Mrs. Koch. A similar example, reference 6102 with an identical dial motif, was sold at Phillips Geneva in May 2024 (lot 219) for 1,270,000CHF.

The history of horology is both about mechanical craftsmanship, as well as artistic skill and the present Rolex “Caravelle” cloisonné enamel dial wristwatch is a spectacular example of these extremely rare watches. The present watch is offered fresh-to-the-market, wonderfully original, and preserved in overall excellent condition. The dial is spectacular and flawless, while the case is most probably unpolished and is furthermore fitted with its original Rolex Jubilee bracelet in 18 karat yellow gold. We are delighted to offer it in “as found” condition – even the original crystal and rubber gasket remain, making it an important work of art for the discerning collector.

Rolex

Swiss | 1905
Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.
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