Rolex - The New York Watch Auction: XI New York Saturday, December 7, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1986
    Reference No: 16550; repeated on inside caseback
    Movement No: 1’490’036
    Case No: 9’720’297
    Model Name: Explorer II
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3085, 27 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 78360, endlinks stamped 501, max overall length 215mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, reference 78360, stamped ‘K7’
    Dimensions: 40mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex product literature, instruction manual, leather wallet, leather folio, calendar card, medallion, polishing cloth, and presentation box.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Rolex’s Explorer II reference 16550 replaced the beloved reference 1655, which was a modernized version of the brand’s historic Explorer line of wristwatches. The unique design was originally intended for spelunkers, with a fixed, engraved 24-hour calibrated bezel and additional 24-hour hand that permits the wearer to easily know the correct time in the darkness of caves.

    The reference 16550 was a milestone reference. It was introduced in 1985, and was the first mechanical Rolex model fitted with a scratch resistant sapphire crystal. Produced for only a few years, white dial examples have become a collector’s favorite due to a manufacturing flaw, with the original white color turning a very pleasing ivory or cream hue over time. Early versions of the reference provide further intrigue with their attractive “rail” dial configuration, found in the perfect alignment of the vertical space between the written text across the two lines on the dial at 6 o’clock, with “Superlative” and “Officially” words on the left, and “Chronometer” and “Certified” words on the right. In addition to the color change, the dials were made using a glossy, lacquered finish, giving them a porcelain-like look. The white gold applied luminous hour markers complement the dial of the present example, having aged to a warm beige color.

    In original condition, and remaining in our opinion unpolished, this example stands out with its stunning ivory dial, beautifully aged hour markers, and original proportions.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Lot offered with No Reserve

Ref. 16550; repeated on inside caseback
An attractive and well-preserved stainless steel wristwatch with ivory "rail" dial, 24-hour hand, center seconds, bracelet, and presentation box

Circa 1986
40mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate
$12,000 - 24,000 
CHF10,600-21,100
€11,200-22,500
HK$93,300-187,000

Sold for $22,860

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Americas
+1 (212) 940-1293
watchesny@phillips.com

Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, New York
+1 (212) 940 1285
iproia@phillips.com

The New York Watch Auction: XI

New York Auction 7 - 8 December 2024