Rolex - The New York Watch Auction: EIGHT New York Saturday, June 10, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1969
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: D377’436
    Case No: 2’191’090, inventory number H8376/7
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, overall length 190mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp stamped 2 70
    Dimensions: 40mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by punched Rolex guarantee, punched Rolex guarantee booklet, hang tags, leather wallet, and product literature.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Phillips is proud to present what is most probably the best-preserved, most complete example of a gold Mark I “meters first” Submariner ref. 1680 we have ever seen. The case is stunning - unrestored, beautifully displaying its factory original brushed and polished surfaces, razor-sharp edges, and crisp hallmarks. Its original Mark I dial is equally well-preserved, with a flawless matte black surface, gilt printing, and perfectly intact luminous hour markers.

    The Rolex Submariner has become such an icon that not only can it be considered the benchmark for all future diving watches, but it has also spawned its own scholarly following devoted to every nuance and variation from its first appearance in the Rolex catalogue in 1954 until the present day. The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 was launched in 1967 and was the first Submariner model fitted with a date function. Soon to follow in 1969, Rolex introduced the first Submariner to be produced in 18K yellow gold. The model would eventually be produced with an option of either a blue dial with blue bezel insert or black dial with black bezel insert, like the present model.

    This extremely early example with a 2.1 million case serial number is one of only approximately 100 18K gold Submariners believed to have been produced with a Mark I “meters first” dial. Later examples sported a Mark II dial with “feet first” depth rating. Furthermore, the dial found on the gold reference 1680 differs from stainless steel examples as it features hour markers playfully known as "nipple indexes" - round applied gold hour indexes with smaller tritium markers.

    Offered complete with its original and stunningly preserved solid gold bracelet, punched Rolex guarantee and punched guarantee booklet, this is an opportunity to own a hardly ever worn, exceptional, and early example of the first luxury diver's watch made by Rolex.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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80

Ref. 1680
A very rare, early, and extremely well-preserved yellow gold diver’s wristwatch with “meters first nipple” dial, date, bracelet, punched guarantee, punched guarantee booklet, and hang tags

1969
40mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate
$60,000 - 120,000 
CHF54,000-108,000
€55,500-111,000
HK$469,000-938,000
S$80,700-161,000

Sold for $177,800

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Head of Watches, Americas
+1 (212) 940-1293
WatchesNY@Phillips.com
 
Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, New York
+1 (212) 940 1285
iproia@phillips.com

The New York Watch Auction: EIGHT

New York Auction 10 - 11 June 2023