Not just an archetype for modern dive watches, the Rolex Submariner is an icon that has cultivated a large following dedicated to every variant and slight modification from its first iteration, which appeared in the Rolex catalogue in 1953, to the present day. The Submariner ref. 1680 was launched in 1967. Being the first of its kind to be fitted with a date function, the not-so-inconspicuous date window sparked a heated controversy among watch aficionados that is still aglow today.
The present ref. 1680 is a well-preserved Rolex Submariner from circa 1978. Belonging to the MK I dial variation, it possesses distinctive features such as the closed 6s in “660ft=200m” and the “L” in Rolex which is perfectly centred under the middle of the coronet. The present example has matured gracefully and the patinated golden lumes create the perfect contrast against the delicious black dial. Preserved in an excellent overall condition, this timepiece is certainly a collectors’ favourite.
Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.
One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.