Rolex - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XII Hong Kong Saturday, June 5, 2021 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1975
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: D366’833
    Case No: 3’931’892, inside caseback stamped 1680
    Model Name: Submariner “Red Sub”, MK V
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “9315”, endlinks stamped “380”, max length 180mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant folding clasp
    Dimensions: 40mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, clasp and movement signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    Launched circa 1967, the reference 1680 was the first to be fitted with a date function. The inclusion of a date window enable diver’s to monitor passing days during their underwater expeditions. Early dial variations of the reference displays a ‘meters first’ depth rating and the ‘Submariner’ script printed in red, hence the name “Red Sub”. Highly sought-after, these diver’s watch with a dash of red is rare and marks an important milestone for this utilitarian tool watch.

    The present example features a Mark V dial, recognizable from the feet first orientation of the depth rating. The red “Submariner” script is printed directly on the dial on the surface without a white base layer and features open 6’s on the depth rating. The bezel has matured to a dark grey shade, furthermore the lume plots have aged to an attractive warm buttery patina. Offered in attractive condition, the contrast of the of grey, black and yellow heightens the vintage appeal of this timepiece.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 1680
A fine and rare stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, date, MK V dial and bracelet

Circa 1975
40mm diameter
Case, dial, clasp and movement signed

HK$120,000 - 200,000 

Sold for HK$277,200

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2001

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XII

Hong Kong Auctions 5-6 June 2021