939
Rolex
Ref. 6239
Cosmograph Daytona, "Double Swiss Underline"
An extremely early, well-preserved and rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with “Double SWISS Underline” dial, MK I bezel and bracelet
Full-Cataloguing
- Very early ref. 6239, made for the American market
- All correct attributes such as early hash bezel, double Swiss designation, underline dial, 6238 caseback and "ROW" stamped movement
- Rare Rolex U.S.A. bracelet
- Case and dial very well-preserved in excellent condition
The reference 6239 was introduced in 1963, marking a milestone year for Rolex. Named the "Cosmograph", the model featured a tachymeter scale engraved directly on the bezel for the very first time. While initially announced as the "Le Mans", the series was ultimately christened the "Daytona".
Fresh to the auction market, this timepiece is among the earliest reference 6239s ever produced and displays all the correct attributes of the coveted "Double Swiss Underline" variation. Its MK 1 bezel is calibrated to 300 units per hour with fine hash marks and features the rare "275" intermediary graduation absent on later executions. The black "Double Swiss Underline" dial carries a fascinating historical quirk: Rolex initially used dial stamps intended for earlier models, but because the new Cosmograph bezel obscured the lower text, a second "Swiss" signature was printed higher up to ensure visibility once assembled.
Further highlighting its transitional nature, the dial features a distinctive underline beneath the "Rolex Cosmograph" text to signify the shift from radium to tritium luminous material. The hands are characteristic of early production, being noticeably longer and slimmer, nearly reaching the hour markers. Period-correct details extend to the caseback, which is stamped "6238" as Rolex routinely utilized inventory from previous models, and the cal. 72B movement, stamped "ROW" to denote manufacture for the American market, matching its Rolex U.S.A. bracelet signed "C&I" on the clasp.
Bearing serial number 923'229, this watch sits just four digits away from a very similar example (serial 923'233) at the landmark Phillips Daytona Ultimatum auction in 2018. Representing a pivotal moment in the evolution of modern chronographs, this specimen offers collectors an exceptionally rare opportunity to acquire an very early reference 6239.
Rolex
Swiss | 1905Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.
One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.