196Σ︎
Piaget
Grande Sonnerie Gouvernor “Unique Piece”
A unique, extraordinary, and historically important white gold and diamond-set grande and petite sonnerie wristwatch with guarantee, service papers, and presentation box
Estimate
$300,000–600,000
Manufacturer
Piaget
Year
1997, Switzerland
Case No
1645; 656’583
Model Name
Grande Sonnerie Gouvernor “Unique Piece”
Material
18K white gold, diamonds
Calibre
Manual, cal. 1996P, 33 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Leather
Clasp/Buckle
18K white gold and diamond-set pin buckle
Dimensions
40mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, clasp, and buckle signed.
Accessories
Accompanied by Piaget warranty card indicating sale in 2006, instruction manual, service papers, product literature, CD-ROM, two additional crocodile straps, and diamond-set 18K white gold deployant clasp.
Full-Cataloguing
GOOD TO KNOW
• Unique piece in this configuration and case size, part of a series of possibly 6 Grande Sonnerie watches made
• Made for Piaget by then-unknown independent watchmaker François-Paul Journe
• One of the earliest Grande et Petite Sonnerie wristwatches ever produced
• Recently underwent 2 year-long service at Piaget
Piaget has gained a foothold in the consciousness of modern watch collectors, with their extravagant, artistic, and sumptuous bracelet watches. F.P. Journe is amongst the most desirable watch brands on the planet at the moment. Few people are aware that for a brief moment in time, 30 years ago, they came together on a pioneering, yet ultimately ill-fated project – the Gouvernor Grand Sonnerie.
It’s one of the earliest wristwatches to combine a grand sonnerie, petite sonnerie, and minute repeater in a wearable format. It predates Journe’s own sonnerie by more than a decade and was also a one-off collaboration between a major brand and a then-unknown independent watchmaker who would go on to become one of the greatest of his generation. Indeed, the money earned from this commission with Piaget would help fund the launch of the brand F.P. Journe.
For collectors of F.P. Journe, this is an origin story in metal. For collectors of Piaget, it’s a rare look into a time when the brand swung for the fences. And for horology fans in general, it’s proof that even during the shaky early years of the quartz recovery, there were still people pushing the limits. In fact, this reference was meant to be the crown jewel of the Gouvernor collection, which ended up including a time-only, tourbillon, chronograph, split-seconds chronograph, and perpetual calendar – all discontinued after a few short years.
Though Journe won a contract to make 10 watches, it is believed from further research that only 6 pieces were eventually cased and sold, with 4 having been documented publicly: two in white gold and two in pink gold, one in each metal with a silvered guilloché dial and black engraved dial, respectively. The known examples measure 37mm in diameter.
This fresh-to-the-market example differs from its counterparts with its enlarged, 40mm case diameter and diamond-set case, dial, and buckle. Though probably created for the 1997 SIHH trade show, its guarantee affirms the rumor it was not sold until 2006, it is believed, to a Middle Eastern royal family member for the princely sum of $800,000.
The movement is surprisingly and astonishingly thin, at only 6.7mm thick and comprising an impressive 350 parts. Like its descendent, the Journe Grande et Petite Sonnerie Souverain (see lot 195), the gongs are visible through the dial side, and features the additional functionality of a chime/silence selector – both classic hallmarks of Journe.
Stamped “Piece Unique” to the caseback, it is fantastically festooned with invisibly-set diamonds to the bezel, crown, lugs, and even the tops of the buttons used to activate the sonnerie functions. The center dial is replete with pavé diamonds, and the hour indexes comprise of inset baguette-cut hour markers.
Not just unique, not just complex, not just beautiful – this 40mm wristwatch is so much more than that. It is the bridge between old and new, it is excess and extravagance and restraint, and it is collaboration and the pursuit of greatness. It is an exquisite representation of the very best of the spirit of watchmaking.
• Unique piece in this configuration and case size, part of a series of possibly 6 Grande Sonnerie watches made
• Made for Piaget by then-unknown independent watchmaker François-Paul Journe
• One of the earliest Grande et Petite Sonnerie wristwatches ever produced
• Recently underwent 2 year-long service at Piaget
Piaget has gained a foothold in the consciousness of modern watch collectors, with their extravagant, artistic, and sumptuous bracelet watches. F.P. Journe is amongst the most desirable watch brands on the planet at the moment. Few people are aware that for a brief moment in time, 30 years ago, they came together on a pioneering, yet ultimately ill-fated project – the Gouvernor Grand Sonnerie.
It’s one of the earliest wristwatches to combine a grand sonnerie, petite sonnerie, and minute repeater in a wearable format. It predates Journe’s own sonnerie by more than a decade and was also a one-off collaboration between a major brand and a then-unknown independent watchmaker who would go on to become one of the greatest of his generation. Indeed, the money earned from this commission with Piaget would help fund the launch of the brand F.P. Journe.
For collectors of F.P. Journe, this is an origin story in metal. For collectors of Piaget, it’s a rare look into a time when the brand swung for the fences. And for horology fans in general, it’s proof that even during the shaky early years of the quartz recovery, there were still people pushing the limits. In fact, this reference was meant to be the crown jewel of the Gouvernor collection, which ended up including a time-only, tourbillon, chronograph, split-seconds chronograph, and perpetual calendar – all discontinued after a few short years.
Though Journe won a contract to make 10 watches, it is believed from further research that only 6 pieces were eventually cased and sold, with 4 having been documented publicly: two in white gold and two in pink gold, one in each metal with a silvered guilloché dial and black engraved dial, respectively. The known examples measure 37mm in diameter.
This fresh-to-the-market example differs from its counterparts with its enlarged, 40mm case diameter and diamond-set case, dial, and buckle. Though probably created for the 1997 SIHH trade show, its guarantee affirms the rumor it was not sold until 2006, it is believed, to a Middle Eastern royal family member for the princely sum of $800,000.
The movement is surprisingly and astonishingly thin, at only 6.7mm thick and comprising an impressive 350 parts. Like its descendent, the Journe Grande et Petite Sonnerie Souverain (see lot 195), the gongs are visible through the dial side, and features the additional functionality of a chime/silence selector – both classic hallmarks of Journe.
Stamped “Piece Unique” to the caseback, it is fantastically festooned with invisibly-set diamonds to the bezel, crown, lugs, and even the tops of the buttons used to activate the sonnerie functions. The center dial is replete with pavé diamonds, and the hour indexes comprise of inset baguette-cut hour markers.
Not just unique, not just complex, not just beautiful – this 40mm wristwatch is so much more than that. It is the bridge between old and new, it is excess and extravagance and restraint, and it is collaboration and the pursuit of greatness. It is an exquisite representation of the very best of the spirit of watchmaking.
Piaget
Swiss | 1874Creativity, audacity and know-how are the values that gave Piaget its international reputation and allowed the brand to distinguish itself in the world of fine watchmaking and precision. Founder Georges Edouard Piaget established the company in 1874 and manufactured watch movements. While Piaget is famously recognized today for their elaborate wristwatch and bangle designs, they also mastered the marriage of their high-quality, in-house-produced wristwatches and stunning pieces of jewelry.
Collectors consider the 1970s as Piaget's era of superb creativity and unbounded designs. During this highly creative period, the brand designed an impressive range of cuff and bracelet watches carved in gold and adorned with exotic hard stones. Admired by most as not only jewelry but also true works of art, the firm's hard stone dial watches remain the most iconic, recognizable and desirable among collectors.