Reference 3428 is indisputably one of the most remarkable automatic wristwatch models made in the 1960s by any brand. To fully understand the reference, one has first to look back at its ancestor/twin: reference 2526. One of the first Patek Philippe models to feature an automatic Patek Philippe calibre, it was powered by the hallowed cal. 12-600, considered one of the best automatic movements of all time.
Even though the company invested enormous resources in the development of cal. 12-600, once customers began using it “in the wild” Patek Philippe noticed a number of minor upgrades (especially to the automatic module) which could be done to further improve the movement. Such upgrades were incrementally implemented throughout the 1950s and included ball bearings for the automatic rotor, winding trigger reinforcements, different screw setting on the winding weight etc. As these upgrades were minor and also constantly being studied and added, the movement name never changed, at least not until Patek Philippe deemed to have achieved perfection. In the late 1950s the final evolution of cal. 12-600 came to be, and was finally renamed as cal. 27-460. In fact, to further highlight the “definitive” nature of the new movement, a new reference number was launched: indeed the present ref. 3428, identical to ref. 2526 but featuring the new calibre (it has to be noted that, curiously, some of the latest 2526 do feature this new calibre while keeping the old reference number, possibly in order to deplete the last few case backs in stock).
Thus, reference 3428 is what Patek Philippe decided was the best possible evolution of what is now considered the best automatic movement of all times. Simply put, it is technical perfection.
Even disregarding the pinnacle of mechanical development present inside its case, the reference is aesthetically considered a masterpiece: the elegant Calatrava lines and the perfect size and thickness of the model have made this design one of the most appreciated of the entire production of the brand. It is important to note that such a landmark case construction was actually, and ironically, beginning to be out of fashion in the 1960s, as the market taste was evolving toward thin and ultra-thin timepieces. This is why, for the joy of Patek Philippe collectors, reference 3428 was in production for about five years only: from 1960 to 1965, making it extremely more rare than its predecessor ref. 2526.
The present example is without a doubt one of the most appealing to recently appear at auction: the dial is without fissures or cracks and presents the cream tonality such enamel dials are now famous for; the graphics painted in gold powder are perfectly preserved. The case as well is in extremely good condition, featuring full lugs and with incredibly crisp hallmarks under the lugs. Last, but not least, the piece spent good part of the past three decades securely locked away in the vault of an important Italian collector.