Daniel Roth - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII Hong Kong Thursday, November 25, 2021 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Daniel Roth
    Year: Circa 1990s
    Reference No: C117
    Movement No: 41
    Case No: 041
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 8810, 30 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Crocodile
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Daniel Roth pin buckle
    Dimensions: 35mm width x 38mm length
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by a blank Daniel Roth Certificate of Authenticity.

  • Catalogue Essay

    A Daniel Roth wristwatch is instantaneously recognizable due to its unique and iconic elongated rectangular shaped case with round edges or double-ellipse. While its case shape is interesting and a statement on its own, early Daniel Roth pieces were heavily inspired by Abraham-Louis Breguet, most recognizable from its dial consistently featuring metallic chapter rings with Roman numerals and hand-finished details.

    The birth of the Daniel Roth brand came at a time where independent watchmakers who were either building movements for other brands or restoring timepieces decided to create timepieces under their own name. Established in 1988, Daniel Roth was among one of the earliest along with the likes of Franck Muller, Vianney Halter and Roger Dubuis to embark on their own journey.

    In the early 1990s, after having launched various models with differing complications working closely with other highly skilled watchmakers, Daniel Roth sought out to create a perpetual calendar wristwatch for its signature double-ellipse case. Roughly around the same time in 1992, legendary watchmaker Philippe Dufour announced his decision to become completely independent and to create timepieces under his own name, the same year where he introduced the highly impressive Grand Sonnerie at Baselworld. Being just down the road from arguably one of the best and if not the best watchmaker in Vallée de Joux, It was inevitable for the two to work together and collaborate.

    With the acceptance from Dufour, the two set out to create the Daniel Roth Perpetual Calendar ref. C117. The foundation of choice was the reliable and robust Lemania cal. 8810 which they used as a base with modifications made by Dufour for it to fit inside the unusual dimensions of the double-ellipse case. Described as hard work even for someone of his skill, the pair was not just developing a regular perpetual calendar but the world’s first instantaneous perpetual calendar where all components would change instantly once the hands pasts midnight. However, both Roth and Dufour quickly realized that in order for that to happen, too much energy was required to achieve the feature and that the day and month apertures had to be changed to sub dials.

    The present example in yellow gold is of the rare variant from the earlier examples with two apertures for the day and month. Although Roth and Dufour never achieved their goal of it being an instantaneous perpetual calendar, it is rather interesting and a great opportunity for collectors to acquire a Daniel Roth timepiece developed together with the respected Philippe Dufour.


Ref. C117
A fine and rare yellow gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with leap year indication

Circa 1990s
35mm width x 38mm length
Case, dial, movement and buckle signed

HK$60,000 - 120,000 

Sold for HK$604,800

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2001

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII

Hong Kong Auctions 25-26 November 2021