133Σ︎

Cartier

Ref. 78092

Tank Normale

An elegant and attractive yellow gold wristwatch

$6,000–12,000
Live June 13, 10:00 AM ET
Cartier
Circa 1970s, Switzerland
78092
1659
Tank Normale
18K yellow gold
Manual, cal. 78-1, 17 jewels
Crocodile
18K yellow gold Cartier deployant buckle
30mm length x 22.5mm width
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
Scan of service receipt from Cartier Place Vendôme dated 4 May 2017.
GOOD TO KNOW

• The Tank Normale was introduced in 1919 as the first commercially available Tank watch
• Purchased through and serviced by Cartier Place Vendôme
• Case preserved in unpolished condition with sharp brancards and deep hallmarks

Few wristwatch designs have attained the enduring cultural and aesthetic resonance of the Cartier Tank. Introduced in 1919 as the first commercially available Tank Normale, the model drew direct inspiration from the geometry of the Renault FT-17, its parallel brancards evoking the continuous tracks of the military vehicle. From its inception, the Tank represented a radical departure from the ornate pocket watches of the era, embracing a purified, architectural form that has remained remarkably consistent across more than a century of production. Its timeless elegance has secured a place on the wrists of cultural luminaries ranging from Jackie Kennedy to Andy Warhol, underscoring its status as both a design icon and a symbol of refined taste.

The present Tank Normale—the rarest of the collection—dates to the 1970s and stands as an survivor from this important period of Cartier’s production. Preserved in remarkable condition, it is distinguished by a pristine dial, complete with the discreet hidden signature at 7 o’clock, a detail prized by collectors. The original lacquered dial with “Swiss” signature at 6 o’clock, distinct from the more commonly seen Paris-signed dials, identifies it has having been originally distributed through Cartier’s New York Boutique.

Equally compelling is the outstanding preservation of the case, which in our opinion remains unpolished. The brancards retain their original geometry with sharp, well defined chamfers, while the hallmarks are deep, crisp, and fully legible, details of particular importance as they attest to minimal intervention over the decades. Consigned by a long-time VIP client of Cartier, he purchased the watch directly from the Boutique Cartier Paris - Place Vendôme, where it was also serviced in May 2017. The watch is further accompanied by its original Cartier strap and 18K deployant clasp.

Cartier

French

With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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