The advent of the 1940s brought forward the return of gold watches and gold cases - a stylistic departure from the ornate and flamboyant designs of the Art Deco era. During this time, round watches surpassed the Art Deco inspired form watches of the previous decades in terms of popularity. Cartier took the notion of a round watch one step further by creating one with another circular bezel attached by circular fixtures. This design gave way to the name "Helm Watch", or "Gouvernail" in French, named such because of its design resembling a ship's wheel. The timepieces during this period were usually plain yellow gold or platinum, however the most lavish examples were set with stones.

The present open-face watch is a symbolic bridge of sorts, linking the Art Deco era and the 1940s. While it is round in shape, with a helm-like outer bezel, it still retains the codes of the Art Deco era with its Indian-inspired floral motifs and use of rose-cut diamonds and rubies. The floral Hindu motif would notably be reused again by Cartier in the modern era in its catalogue, making reference to the past.

Preserved in excellent condition, this timepiece is a testament to how Cartier forever reinvented itself throughout history and constantly pushed the boundaries of what was considered the status quo.