Audemars Piguet - The New York Watch Auction: EIGHT New York Saturday, June 10, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1972
    Reference No: 5402ST
    Movement No: 128'318
    Case No: No. A 137
    Model Name: Royal Oak “A Series”
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max overall length 200mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Later replacement stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by an Audemars Piguet service receipt dated June 24, 2021, and black leather Audemars Piguet service box. The New York Audemars Piguet boutique confirmed the sale of this watch on January 14, 1972.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Launched in 1972, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak was the world’s first stainless steel luxury sports watch with a fully integrated bracelet. Designed overnight in response to an urgent request for an ‘unprecedented steel watch’, it was at the same time the most expensive stainless steel watch ever made. Today the Royal Oak is a legend, accounting for over 80% of the brand’s sales. Audemars Piguet sought famed designer Gerald Genta, who developed a brilliantly engineered, monobloc case, with a distinctively maritime feel, featuring an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal, white gold screws, and a dial with a very fine “petite tapisserie” motif. The Royal Oak was an immediate sensation, and while originally there was scepticism, today it is an icon model that has for over 50 years pleased collectors for both its design and engineering.

    The present Royal Oak 5402 “Series A” is a very early example with the case number 137. The ref. 5402 was produced in several different batches across A, B, C and D case numbers with small design details that made each subtly different. They house the extra slim caliber 2121 based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 920, that would later be used for Patek Philippe’s Nautilus wristwatch and Vacheron Constantin’s 222.

    Consigned by the original owner, this Royal Oak features the distinctive “AP’”logo positioned at 6 o’clock, with later models having the brand logo at the 12 o’clock position. The dial is all the more desirable and further enhanced due to its beautiful “tropical” aging with light copper accents in the center. The watch was fully serviced by Audemars Piguet in 2021 and is in lovely overall condition.

    The Royal Oak is an iconic horological gem that is highly popular and collectible, and this fresh-to-the-market, early example is a wonderful addition to any collection.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Property of the Original Owner

131

Ref. 5402ST
A very rare, early and highly attractive stainless “A Series” wristwatch with copper “tropical dial”, bracelet, and service receipt

1972
39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate
$50,000 - 100,000 
CHF45,000-90,000
€46,200-92,400
HK$391,000-782,000
S$67,200-134,000

Sold for $107,950

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Head of Watches, Americas
+1 (212) 940-1293
WatchesNY@Phillips.com
 
Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, New York
+1 (212) 940 1285
iproia@phillips.com

The New York Watch Auction: EIGHT

New York Auction 10 - 11 June 2023