Independent Watchmakers: The Bridge Between Vintage And Modern Collectibles

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Recommended Reading

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Specialists' Picks: The Geneva Sessions, Online Auction, Fall 2024

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Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is excited to announce The Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024, online auction, taking place from 12:00 PM HKT, Friday, September 20, to 2:00 PM HKT, Friday, September 27. Featuring more than 135 different high-end luxury wristwatches, the sale covers everything from A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe to Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, including the 1979 Nautilus “Jumbo” Ref. 3700/1 in stainless steel featured above.

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– Arthur Touchot

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Watch auctions.

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Those once-upon-a-time intimate events attended by a small group of veteran collectors. Today, they more closely resemble a music festival, capable of attracting thousands of watch enthusiasts from all over the world.

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Some things have changed: Introductions are now done using Instagram handles instead of business cards; only a few individuals grab paddles on their way in, while others check their iPhones' batteries to ensure they'll be able to capture that magical "world record" moment.

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Still, what remains and what has contributed to the growing popularity of these events is the high that live auctions provide long after the auctioneer has slammed their gavel down on the final lot of the sale.

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But those are not the only auctions that arouse excitement among watch collectors these days. Online-only auctions have plenty to offer, including seriously exciting and collectible watches and some unpredictable results. There's a reason they've become a much more regular occurrence in the calendar and why, after some resistance (for reasons which we will explain in a moment), Phillips began hosting online Watches auctions in 2021.

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Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo hosted its first live auction six years earlier. Held in Geneva, inside a prestigious hotel, that inaugural auction featured only a highly curated selection of the finest Rolex Day-Date models, and it immediately set a new standard for a distinctive watch auction.

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Phillips would focus only on the best, the most qualitative watches on the market, and would honor them with beautiful catalogs and glamorous events.

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This was a bold strategy, in stark contrast with the more fashionable pursuit at the time of high-volume online auctions. But online auctions were slowly developing a reputation as tools to swallow up the lower quality watches that were often taken in by specialists to secure the more important pieces in a collection. The unwanted watches would end up in poorly advertised online sales, while the more coveted pieces would feature in prestigious live sales. Unfortunately, this strategy was transparent to sellers and buyers, and online sales slowly became associated with subpar or undesirable collectibles.

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At the same time, it became impossible to overlook the substantial surge in online activity during our live auctions. By the end of Phillips' first year of business, online bidding had already become the preferred method of bidding. By the end of 2019, the number of bidders in our Digital Salesroom outnumbered those in the room by a factor of seven to one, while our auctioneers were taking virtual bids on 95 percent of the lots offered. In those four years, the record result for a watch sold to an online client was broken every six months, as collectors became comfortable bidding at every level and on watches sight unseen.

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Our decision to introduce online-only watch auctions was carefully considered, with the Watches department progressively entering pieces through INTERSECT, a series of cross-category online auctions hosted by Phillips between 2021 and 2022.

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This strategic move was motivated by one of the fundamentals of our passion: watch collecting isn't seasonal. It's a life-long, year-long passion, and while there is a certain appeal to waiting for catalogues to show up in the mailbox every six months, there is also a need and a desire to buy and sell watches in between the typical "auction seasons." The introduction of online sales emerged as a highly effective solution to cater to the evolving needs of our valued clients, enabling them to engage in watch transactions at their convenience.

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But if we were going to host an online-only Watches sale, we would only do it our way.

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Our approach would have to be unique, and unique back then meant upholding the same exacting standards for watches sold online as we do for any timepiece in our collection.

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Our commitment involved:

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Crafting extensive lot essays and editorials.
Showcasing exquisite in-house photography.
Producing high-quality videos.
Providing robust support to ensure clients worldwide were well-informed about the pieces available.

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Our aim was not to regard online sales as inferior to live auctions but to seamlessly integrate them into our auction calendar.

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Phillips hosted its first online-only Watch auction last Summer, in July 2022. It was a statement sale, with more than 100 watches selected to inaugurate the department's first virtual sale. The auction featured an impressive selection of (mostly) modern and lightly worn watches, including a top lot that any auctioneer would be more than delighted to hammer in front of a room full of excited collectors. After a week of open bidding, the sale ended with a perfect, 100 percent sell-through rate.

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It was a good start for the Watches department and the beginning of a fantastic run of online sales, including four INTERSECT auctions, multiple multiple-owner sales (including our annual charity auctions with the Horological Society of New York) and three thematic online sales (The Beauty in Everything, Le Concours de Complexité, and Disruptors).

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Overall, our online sales have been wildly successful. In total, we've sold 576 watches online over the past two years, and all 576 watches have found a new home.

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We hope our record stays perfect over the next seven days with our curent online auction. The Hong Sessions, Fall 2023, which features more than 130 high-end luxury wristwatches, covering everything from F.P. Journe and Patek Philippe to Audemars Piguet and Rolex.

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We are once again very proud of the watches offered and believe they represent the quality of timepieces one will always find at Phillips – whether in a live auction or an online one.

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You can view the complete catalog for the Phillips Watches Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction, right here.

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The Geneva Watch Days: The Brief History Of A Young Fair Heading Toward Maturity

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About Arthur Touchot

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Arthur Touchot is a former journalist who specialized in the luxury market. Having earned a master’s degree in journalism at Northwestern University, Arthur combined his love of watches and words by becoming a regular contributor to The New York Times and the Financial Times at the start of his career, later becoming senior European editor at Hodinkee. In 2017, Arthur joined Phillips as International Head of Digital Strategy to lead the global content and digital marketing strategy of the auction house’s watch department, and has been involved in bringing some of the world’s rarest timepieces to auction.

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Recommended Reading

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Our Takeaways From The Patek Philippe Tokyo 2023 Grand Exhibition

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Five Of Our Favorite Watch Media Collaborations

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Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is thrilled to welcome you to The Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, online auction, running from 12:00 PM CET, Thursday, September 5, to 2:00 PM CET, Thursday, September 12. Featuring 70 different high-end luxury wristwatches, the sale covers everything from A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe to Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, including the Hautlence Avant-Garde HLRQ 02 featured above.

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– Logan Baker

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Hautlence is not a new brand. The Swiss watchmaker was founded in 2004, when the high-end independent watchmaking scene was in the middle of a boom cycle defined by the so-called “hyperwatch.”

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Unfortunately, when the Global Financial Crisis occurred in the late 2000s, many of those new companies faltered and disappeared. Hautlence, however, was one of the few brands born in this era to survive, alongside similar avant-garde pioneers De Bethune (founded in 2002), MB&F (founded in 2004), and Greubel Forsey (2004).

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Despite its continued existence, Hautlence is a much smaller brand today than any of those surviving peers. The company has persisted thanks to a wonderfully creative approach to mechanical watchmaking that is unlike anything else on the market. The same uniqueness that makes Hautlence so special, unfortunately, hasn’t always been a strength.

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The company struggled to find an identity for much of the 2010s, leading its owners to pause all brand activities in 2020 and 2021.

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Hautlence made its official return almost exactly one year ago during the Geneva Watch Days exhibition. And I'm glad to report that its future now looks brighter than ever before.

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I met with Hautlence's brand manager, Samuel Hoffmann, last week to chat about the brand’s past, its recent evolution, and what Hautlence’s future might look like – a perfect coincidence, since the catalog for our now-live Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2023, Online Auction includes an example of the very-cool Hautlence HLQ08 Classic from the early 2010s.

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How We Got Here

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The name Hautlence, funnily enough, was originally chosen because it’s an anagram for the Swiss city of Neuchâtel, where the company was founded in 2004 by watch-industry veterans Renaud de Retz and Guillaume Tetu.

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The pair had plenty of experience working in the traditional realm of watchmaking, as part of multinational conglomerate firms with Longines, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and TAG Heuer, but they wanted a fresh start. They wanted to create a line of watches using a new perspective and that prioritized the use of visible mechanics. Their first few watches, introduced under the HL- naming convention, did exactly that, utilizing a unique TV-shaped case design that soon became a brand signature, as well as highly mechanical individual timekeeping displays, such as jumping hours and retrograde minutes.

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Although the first watches utilized ébauche calibers from Peseux with modular additions for the unique displays, Hautlence was determined to grow and move upmarket, so in 2005 they started introducing in-house, proprietary movements of increasing complexity.

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Tetu eventually became the sole face of Hautlence in 2009, when de Retz departed the company, all the way up until 2013, when Hautlence was sold to MELB Holding, a holding company established and run by the former CEO of Audemars Piguet, Georges-Henri Meylan.

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Hautlence was MELB Holding's first major acquisition of a watch brand, followed three months later by the addition of H. Moser & Cie. to the business portfolio. MELB Holding also owns Precision Engineering, a manufacturing facility in Schaffhausen that has the capacity to produce hairsprings and is a well-known supplier for the Swiss watch industry at large.

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Although Moser and Hautlence were both struggling financially in the early 2010s, it soon became clear that H. Moser & Cie. would be the focus for this growing conglomerate, when Georges-Henri Meylan’s son, Eduouard, was appointed CEO of H. Moser (a role he still has today). Tetu, meanwhile, was retained as Hautlence's leader until 2016.

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Hautlence continued to release a diverse range of interesting and compelling – if, admittedly, rather esoteric – new watches until the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020. That’s when MELB Holding hit pause on all marketing and distribution for Hautlence, allowing the entire business an unexpected period to reflect on what the brand's future might be.

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Finally, after two long years of dormancy, Hautlence officially returned in September 2022, with an updated product and brand strategy, as well as plans for a refined collection of watches.

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“Edouard came to me a year and a half ago and said, ‘Listen, would you be interested in relaunching Hautlence?’” Hoffmann, Hautlence’s current brand manager, says. “That's where this whole process of relaunching the company – to get to the core of what Hautlence as a brand actually means – and bringing it to where it is now, began.”

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Synergy, And The Three Tenets Of Hautlence

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Hoffmann worked closely with Edouard Meylan and the rest of the MELB Holding board to establish three core rules that would define the brand identity of a Hautlence watch.

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“The first point is our TV-shaped case,” Hoffmann says. “The cases in our new watches, for instance the HL Linear Series 2 in stainless steel that we launched at Watches and Wonders this year, utilizes the TV-shaped design but it has a more modern complexion, with an integrated rubber strap and water resistance up to one hundred meters. All our complications will be water resistant now.”
“Our second point is all about motion,” he says. “Hautlence is all about the concept of not reading the time but watching it pass through our TV case. We have a combined jumping and retrograde hour display on the left side of the HL Linear Series 2, which looks a bit like those big TV buttons from the ‘70s. It’s the same sort of spirit with the updated HL Sphere Series 1; we’ve relaunched it using a single piece of sapphire crystal for the case, allowing a view of the action of the mechanical displays.”
“Our price point also has to be very interesting,” he continues. “We priced the original HL Sphere from 2019 at CHF 99,000; this new edition, however, is priced at CHF 66,000. That's partially due to the new movement we developed for it, which uses a modular system for the spherical jumping hours.”

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The Hautlence team relies on the watchmakers at Precision Engineering, which it shares with H. Moser; in fact, the Hautlence team today is basically just four or five people (including Hoffman) that are focused on product and business development.

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The strategy of sharing watchmakers across brands does mean that Hautlence has officially relocated from its original namesake and home in the Swiss Romandy to the German-speaking city of Schaffhausen. It’s a completely different environment, for sure, but it is producing results, and it allows Hautlence access to several impressive horological inventions that previously might have remained exclusive to Moser. The Linear Series 2, for instance, utilizes a Moser base movement, featuring Moser’s signature flying tourbillon with double hairsprings, while the module for the timekeeping displays is sourced from Agenhor, Jean-Marc Wiederrecht's high-concept movement workshop.

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This intra-group synergy is new for Hautlence, and it’s having a welcome impact internally.

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“Now that Moser, Precision Engineering, and Hautlence are all under one roof, it automatically builds synergies and a more understanding relationship of one another,” Hoffmann says. “We have synergies in finance, logistics, all those typical things, but also the watchmaking is done together to a certain extent – and we all profit from it.”

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What’s Next

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“I would say, in a nice sense, that we didn't always have the correct identity in the past,” Hoffmann says. “I think it was important for us to redefine what Hautlence really means; it might've become a bit unclear at a certain stage, which made things kind of difficult. That was what we needed to work on.”

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Hoffmann has steadied the Hautlence ship over the past year. Production in 2022 was limited to around 100 watches, and the team hopes to hit approximately 170 by the end of this year, and potentially 250 watches in 2024. He’s also taken steps to minimize Hautlence’s retail presence around the world from 35 doors previously to now just 15, all located in critical markets such as Asia (Malaysia, Singapore, Hong Kong, Taiwan); the United States (New York, Chicago, Los Angeles, Las Vegas); Europe (Switzerland, France, United Kingdom); and the Middle East (Dubai). They’re potentially looking at adding a small number of additional doors in the near future, including in Germany and Silicon Valley.

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By keeping the retail and production numbers small, Hoffmann is able to better manage Hautlence's growth going forward. He plans for all future releases to remain limited production, but we can expect approximately four new launches from Hautlence per year, including two brand-new novelties that Hoffmann says will always incorporate either a new movement or a new timekeeping system – staying true to Hautlence’s creative spirit.

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“I think it’s important to keep our rhythm moving, to keep the innovation going,” he says. “The idea is obviously to grow, but we don't ever want to do extreme numbers; we want to stay niche. We don't need to “commercialize” in the big sense of the word, which is what allows us to keep our creativity.”

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You can view the complete catalog for the Phillips Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction, right here.

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About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

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Sylvain Pinaud Had A Whirlwind 2022. It’s Just The Beginning Of His Journey.

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About Logan Baker

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Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.

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Recommended Reading

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Meet Simon Brette, The Fresh-Faced Frenchman That Has The Swiss Watch World Buzzing

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Behrens Will Change Your Perception Of Chinese Watchmaking

\n",[329,330],51,40,8,2229,4312,130777621,"hautlence","indie-insider","

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is thrilled to welcome you to The Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, online auction, running from 12:00 PM CET, Thursday, September 5, to 2:00 PM CET, Thursday, September 12. Featuring 70 different high-end luxury wristwatches, the sale covers everything from A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe to Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, including the MB&F Horological Machine No 2 featured above.

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– By Logan Baker

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It feels like MB&F has been around forever.

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That's what a great brand does – you forget that there was ever a time the watchmaking world was without them. But the truth of the matter is that it's been less than 20 years since Max Büsser left his stable position as the CEO of Harry Winston Timepieces (where he was the architect of the legendary Opus series) in 2005 to start something completely new.

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With a little help from his friends, Max Büsser established his own firm: MB&F, or Max Büsser and Friends. The goal? To take watchmaking to a place it had never been before. Avant-garde, experimental, radical – whatever adjective you prefer, that's the type of watchmaking that MB&F would focus on.

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Büsser and his team envisioned a new form of wristwatch, one that refused to abide by the oft-conservative aesthetic laws of the craft. They wanted to create a wristwatch that looked less like a conventional watch, and more like a futuristic gadget or tool that happened to be worn on the wrist. Thus, the Horological Machine was born.

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Today when you look at MB&F's catalog, the brand is almost entirely divided into two separate series: the Horological Machine, and the Legacy Machine. The two feel inseparable from one another; again, a sign of the strength of each collection. But the Horological Machine came first, in 2007, before it was eventually joined by the first Legacy Machine in 2011.

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The Legacy Machine series still leans far into the realm of unorthodox watchmaking, but it does so with a keen eye toward the past. It intends to showcase the best of traditional Swiss watchmaking through the lens of an alternative present, a Jules Vernesque, steampunk-style take on long-established horological norms. Cases are executed in a conventional round shape, but the displays and mechanical elements on the dial can take on almost any form.

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The Horological Machine collection, meanwhile, makes no apologies for its unabridled embrace of horological futurism. And that's what makes the Horological Machine series so important – it doesn't matter if the watches don't align to conventional wearability standards. The early Horological Machines are the timepieces that Max Büsser and his cohort literally could not wait to make. They represent the brand's inventive spirit and alternative approach to watchmaking in its purest form.

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MB&F released four different Horological Machines before the Legacy Machine appeared – and those are the four watches we're going to examine today.

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2007: MB&F Horological Machine No. 1

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Max Büsser and his team knew that MB&F's debut had to make a statement. It had to be a wristwatch with no compromises, and something that looked like nothing else before it. Surprise, surprise – they succeeded.

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The MB&F Horological Machine No.1 contained the world’s first movement using four barrels that are connected to each other in both parallel and series. It was also the first wristwatch movement capable of simultaneously transmitting energy from two sources to the regulating system.

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Max Büsser called on a number of influential "friends" in developing the Horological Machine No. 1. Award-winning designer Eric Giroud worked directly with Büsser in transforming initial sketches into three-dimensional designs. Peter Speake-Marin, a legend in the world of independent watchmaking, and engineer Laurent Besse were then handed the impossible task of turning Büsser and Giroud's design work into a real-world working timepiece.

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The resulting self-winding movement contained 376 components, 81 functional jewels, four mainspring barrels, and an elevated central 60-second tourbillon. Two barrels are placed on each side of the movement, which reduces the torque output of the individual mainsprings, in turn improving operating isochronism and precision, in addition to decreasing wear on the movement and enabling a mamooth seven-days of running autonomy.

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The kinetic action of the 60-second tourbillon is placed on literal center stage. It sits perfectly in the middle of the face, set exactly between the two separate dials and pairs of mainspring barrels. MB&F would later expand on the idea of a central, elevated regulating organ within the Legacy Machine series – but it was first deployed here, in the HM1.

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Hours on the HM1 are indicated on the left dial of the watch, while the passing minutes are revealed on the right dial. A concentric power reserve display is also integrated into the right dial. The opposing dials look completely separate, but they're of course geared together within the movement via an extra-wide, ultra-thin mirror-polished wheel located between the two sides of the movement and completely supported by jeweled bearings rather than a central axis due to its delicacy.

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The case of the HM1 comes in a hulking figure-eight shape that measures 41mm × 64mm × 14mm and emphasizes three-dimensionality. Comprised of 48 different components, the extra-wide case design provides an overwhelmingly solid house for the intricate movement inside. Large sapphire crystals on the front and the back of the watch provide easy visibility into the HM1's first-of-its-kind mechanical architecture. The HM1 even includes MB&F's signature 22k gold battle-axe rotor that can now be found throughout the brand's complete catalog.

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Seven versions of the HM1 were produced, with a total of 100 examples across the entire series.

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HM1 BLACK Ref. 10.T41WBL.O: Black PVD-coated 18k white gold case, limited edition of 10 pieces.

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HM1 RS Ref. 10.T41RL.O: 18k red gold case, limited edition of 10 pieces.

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HM1 WG / Ruthenium Ref. 10.T41WL.S: 18k white gold case, ruthenium dial.

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HM1 RG / Silver Ref. 10.T41RL.R: 18k red gold case, silver dial.

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HM1 RG / Ruthenium Ref. 10.T41RL.S: 18k red gold case, ruthenium dial, 25 examples produced.

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HM1 WG / Silver Ref. 10.T41.WL.R: 18k white gold case, silver dial.

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HM1 Titanium Ref. 10.T41T: Titanium case, 10-piece limited edition.

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If you're looking to add MB&F's debut timepiece to your collection, best of luck. Out of the four HM models featured in this article, the HM1 has the fewest appearances at auction. I was only able to identify four examples to hit the rostrum since the HM1's release. And out of those four models, three of them were part of the ref. 10.T41RL.S variant, featuring an 18k red gold case and ruthenium dial. The only other result comes courtesy the limited-edition titanium-cased ref. 10.T41T, which sold at a New York auction in October 2016 for USD $90,000 (approx. USD $115,653 today). The average result of the three red gold and ruthenium models (sold in 2009, 2016, and 2020, respectively) was USD $62,838 (accounting for inflation and currency conversion).

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The first MB&F HM1 example to appear in a Phillips auction is available in the Geneva Sessions, Spring 2024, Online Auction (lot 60). It's the rose gold and ruthenium ref. 10.T41RL.S example, and it carries an estimate of CHF 20,000 to 30,000.

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2008: MB&F Horological Machine No. 2

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MB&F didn't rest on its laurels.

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They brought the second Horological Machine out the following year, in 2008. Gone was the figure-eight case, in its place an unusual rectangular case design that looked like a chocolate bar, featuring flying buttresses, dual portholes, and a totally modular construction.

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The Horological Machine 2 introduced a brand-new self-winding movement utilizing a slew of alternative displays and new complications, including instantaneous jumping hours, concentric retrograde minutes, retrograde date, and a bi-hemisphere moon-phase.

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MB&F worked with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (of Agenhor fame), Maximilien Di Blasi, and Patrick Lété to develop the HM2's unique shaped movement architecture. One highlight of their approach is an energy-efficient jump hour/retrograde mechanism that uses a patented asymmetrical tooth shape for the gears to ensure exacting precision with zero shudder or play while in motion.

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The case of the HM2 was nearly as complex as its movement. It utilizes more than 100 different components, including the flying buttresses, mounting holes, embedded gasket tracks, bolted portholes, and sliding crown guard.

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The case dimensions measure 59mm × 38mm × 13mm and is so complex that it could only be completed using an innovative modular method inspired by the model construction sets Büsser played with as a child.

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The HM2's complex construction was pushed even further in a small-batch series of examples that featured cases made entirely of sapphire crystal, requiring 55 hours of milling, drilling, and polishing of the crystal to create each individual case.

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The HM2 is similar to the HM1 in that it uses two opposing displays to indicate the time and/or a complication. On the HM2, the left-side dial contains the retrograde date mechanism and the bi-hemisphere moon phase display, while the right-hand dial features the jumping hour and concentric retrograde minutes. The moon-phase display, featuring two moon faces (one for each hemisphere) made of solid white gold, are especially attractive, offering an old-world poetic sensibility to the overall aggressively avant-garde design.

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Six versions of the HM2 were produced, plus a unique piece for the Only Watch Charity Auction. However, a second generation of the HM2 was introduced in 2010. The HM2.2 "Black Box" was an eight-piece limited-edition that saw legendary watch designer Alain Silberstein team up with MB&F. The watch was completely redesigned under Silberstein's touch, with the addition of an aperture for the jumping hour as well as new pops of color throughout the design – a Silberstein trademark. In addition to the eight-piece Black Box run, MB&F produced a unique version with a brown PVD-coated case, earning it the name, "Chocolate Box." It sold at Phillips Geneva for the first time last November, for a stunning total of CHF 304,800.

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HM2 Black SV Ref. 20.DSTBL.B: Sapphire and black PVD-coated titanium case, limited edition of 18 pieces.

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HM2 Red SV Ref. 20.DSRL.B: Sapphire and 18k red gold case, limited edition of 18 pieces.

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HM2 CR Ref. 20.DCRTL.B: Ceramic and 18k red gold case, limited edition of 33 pieces.

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HM2 CTI Ref. 20.DCTTL.B: Ceramic and titanium case, limited edition of 66 pieces. However, according to the book "MB&F the First 15 Years, A Catalogue Raisoné," only 26 pieces were actually built in this configuration.

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HM2 WT Ref. 20.DWWTL.R: 18k white gold and titanium case, limited edition of 125 pieces.

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HM2 RT Ref. 20.DRRTL.R: 18k red gold and titanium case, limited edition of 125 pieces.

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HM2 Only Watch Unique Piece

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A 2009 MB&F HM2 Ref. 20.DCTTL.B is included in the Phillips Geneva Sessions, Spring 2024, Online Auction (lot 59). Estimate: CHF 20,000 - 30,000

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2009: MB&F Horological Machine No. 3

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The Horological Machine 3 came in 2009. It once again introduced an entirely new case shape and movement.
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\nThe time is read via two rotating cones, of which the top caps of the truncated cones are brazed to ensure maximum water-resistance and the red “hands” are cut by laser to obtain high precision and minimum mass

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The movement of HM3 has been turned upside down to allow for an unconcealed panoramic view of the oscillations of the balance wheel as well as the battle-axe rotor's spins. Flipping the watch over reveals two large ceramic bearings efficiently transmit power up to the cones and date wheel.

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The original HM3 was produced in two distinct versions: "Sidewinder," with cones lined perpendicular to the arm (below), and "Starcruiser," with cones in line with the arm (above).

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Max Büsser and MB&F reunited with some familiar faces to work on the HM3: Eric Giroud worked with Büsser on the design, while Jean-Marc Wiederrecht brought the self-winding movement to life.

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The HM3 Sidewinder and HM3 Starcruiser were each produced in either white gold and titanium or red gold and titanium. However, the HM3 was quickly revived and evolved in 2010 to create the HM3 Frog, which brought out a bit of the anthropomorphic charm in the design, with the addition of stylized luminescent numerals and domed sapphire crystal with a magnifying effect are used to completely encapsulate the cones.

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The HM3 Frog started life with two variations (titanium and a limited edition of 10 pieces in black PVD coated zirconium with yellow gold), but it was quickly joined by a 10-piece limited edition called the Chocolate Frog, released to commemorate the 10-year anniversary of The PuristS online forum, and then an 18-piece limited edition with the HM3 Frog Zr, made of zirconium and featuring purple accents.

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In 2020, on the tenth anniversary of the HM3 Frog, MB&F revisted the design with the all-new Frog X series, featuring an upgraded caliber and a case made completely out of sapphire crystal. Three separate 10-piece batches were produced, featuring purple, blue, or turquoise accents.

\n\n

\n\n

However, that's not all there is to the HM3's story. MB&F brought the HM3 Megawind to market in 2013, which upgraded the HM3 design with a larger battle-axe rotor and a more legible design for the hour and minute cones. Three versions of the HM3 Megawind were created, in 18k red gold and titanium, 18k white gold and titanium, and a limited-production "Final Edition" with a black PVD-coated 18k white gold and titanium case.

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There were various other small-batch HM3 models released over the years, including the Moonmachine in collaboration with Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva and the JwlryMachine in collaboration with Boucheron, the world-famous French jeweler.

\n\n

\n\n

HM3 Starcruiser WG Ref. 30.WTL.B: 18k white gold and titanium case.

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HM3 Starcruiser RG Ref. 30.RTL.B: 18k red gold and titanium case.

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HM3 Sidewinder WG Ref. 31.WTL.B: 18k white gold and titanium case.

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HM3 Sidewinder RG Ref. 31.RTL.B: 18k red gold and titanium case.

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HM3 Megawind RG Ref. 35.RTL.B: 18k red gold and titanium case.

\n\n

HM3 Megawind Ref. WG 35.WTL.B: 18k white gold and titanium case.

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HM3 Megawind Final Edition Ref. 35.WBTL.B: Black PVD-treated 18k white gold and titanium case, limited edition of 25 pieces.

\n\n

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HM3 Frog X Purple Ref. 36.SVL.PU: Sapphire crystal case with purple rotor, limited edition of 10 pieces.

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HM3 Frog X Blue Ref. 36.SVL.BU: Sapphire crystal case with blue rotor, limited edition of 10 pieces.

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HM3 Frog X Turquoise Ref. 36.SVL.GR: Sapphire crystal case with turquoise rotor, limited edition of 10 pieces.

\n\n

HM3 Frog TI Ref. 32.TL.B: Grade 5 titanium case.

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HM3 Poison Dart Frog Ref. 32.ZRBRL.B: Black PVD-coated zirconium case with yellow gold rotor, limited edition of 10 pieces.

\n\n

A circa 2010 MB&F HM3 Starcruiser WG ref. 30.WTL.B is available in the Phillips Geneva Sessions, Spring 2024, Online Auction (lot 47). Estimate: CHF 20,000 - 30,000

\n\n

2010: MB&F Horological Machine No. 4

\n\n

The aviation-inspired HM4 "Thunderbolt’ took the Horological Machine series to a new level. Instead of focusing on cases that would wear relatively flat on the wrist, the HM4 was influenced by old-school drivers' and pilots' watches that had angled displays in order to be easily read while driving or flying.

\n\n

Every aspect of the HM4 is influenced by Max Büsser’s childhood love for assembling model aircraft. More specifically, the overall aesthetic of the watch draws directly from the fuselage of the P47-Thunderbolt fighter plane.

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The manual-wind HM4 movement was the culmination of three long years of intensive development. Each of the 311 components was developed specifically for use in the HM4. Horizontally-configured dual mainspring barrels drive two vertical gear trains, transferring power to the twin pods indicating hours and minutes on the right, power reserve on the left.

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The HM4 received the prize for the Best Concept & Design Watch at the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneva (GPHG) in 2010.

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The HM4 caliber was entirely designed and developed by MB&F over three years of intensive work with Laurent Besse and Beranger Reynard of Les Artisans Horlogers. Twin mainspring barrels drive two vertical gear trains, transferring power to the dial indicating hours and minutes on the right and power reserve on the left.

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The watch provides a 360 degree viewing experience – while one dial displays the timekeeping hour and minute hands, the other shares the power reserve. The reverse side displays the movement in all its glory, which can be marveled through sapphire crystal windows that require up to 185 hours of delicate machining and polishing to be used in the watch.

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\n\n

The HM4 engine is the culmination of three long years of intensive development. Each of the 311 components was developed specifically for this calibre. Horizontally-configured dual mainspring barrels drive two vertical gear trains, transferring power to the twin pods indicating hours and minutes on the right, power reserve on the left. With the dials perpendicular to the wearer’s wrist, HM4 might be described as the perfect pilot’s watch.

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Five versions of the HM4 were produced, plus the Kittyhawk Pièce Unique, with no more than 100 total watches made.

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HM4 Thunderbolt RT Ref. 40.RSL.R: 18k red gold and titanium case, limited edition of 18 pieces.

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HM4 Thunderbolt TI Ref. 40.TSL.B: Sapphire crystal and titanium case.

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HM4 Double Trouble Ref. 41.TSL.BDT: Sapphire crystal and titanium case, limited edition of eight pieces.

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HM4 Razzle Dazzle Ref. 41.TSL.BRD: Sapphire crystal and titanium case, limited edition of eight pieces.

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HM4 Final Edition Ref. 42.BTSL.B: Blackened titanium and sapphire crystal case, limited edition of eight pieces.

\n\n

You can view the complete catalog for the Phillips Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction, right here.

\n\n

About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

\n\n

Independent Watchmakers: The Bridge Between Vintage And Modern Collectibles

\n\n

About Logan Baker

\n\n

Recommended Reading

\n\n

\n\n

A History Of Harry Winston's Histoire de Tourbillon Collection

\n\n

Visiting Les Cadraniers And Les Boîtiers de Genève, F.P. Journe’s Updated Case and Dial Facilities

\n",[338,339],60,7,2226,4455,140299324,"MB&F","independent-watchmaking","

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is thrilled to welcome you to The Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, online auction, running from 12:00 PM CET, Thursday, September 5, to 2:00 PM CET, Thursday, September 12. Featuring 70 different high-end luxury wristwatches, the sale covers everything from A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe to Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, including the Ressence Type 1N featured above.

\n\n

Established by the Belgian industrial designer Benoit Mintiens in 2010, Ressence distinguished itself from the start not by following a playbook written by any previous watchmaker, independent or otherwise, but by rethinking what a fine wristwatch could be and reinterpreting the traditional watch display.

\n\n

For all of the creativity, in-house manufacturing, and proprietary movement design and construction one sees today in high-end watchmaking, it is worth considering the extent to which most analog watches share essentially the same display type.

\n\n

\n\n

With the groundbreaking ROCS (Ressence Orbital Convex System), Ressence established early on that it would show the time in a completely different way, yet one that was also highly intuitive – no easy feat. And while Ressence has received widespread validation from watch collectors and the horological cognoscenti, it comes as little surprise that it has also established itself as a maker of design objects with a following in the art and design worlds.

\n\n

For over a decade, Belgian industrial designer and company founder Benoît Mintiens has chipped away at long-standing horological conventions with a vision toward advancing our understanding of the visual passage of time, through the company's one-of-a-kind orbital time display system.

\n\n

Ressence watches are unique in the world of horology, known for their innovative timekeeping display and minimalist design ideals.

\n\n

\n\n

The company's originality is, of course, defined by the Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS). This is the company's singular representation of time – simply put, each intrinsic aspect of time (hours, minutes, seconds, etc.) is separated into individual sub-dials. Though isolated, these timekeeping registers work together to indicate the passage of time as a whole; the sub-dials rotate as satellites around the center of the watch.

\n\n

Ressence watches also lack a conventional crown. Time-setting and winding are accomplished by rotating the case back, contributing to a cleaner and more ergonomic design. The unconventional display and setting mechanism may require a learning curve, but they offer a unique user experience that is unlike any other watch brand. Collectors should be prepared to embrace this uniqueness.

\n\n

The minimalist and futuristic design of Ressence watches appeals to those who appreciate contemporary aesthetics. Their design ethos combines form and function in a seamless manner, making them stand out in any watch collection.

\n\n

\n\n

Notable Models:

\n\n

Type 1: The Type 1 is the most traditional of Ressence watches, of which there have been several variations. The Type 1S – for slim – offers a more wearable case design, while the Type 1² features a cushion-shaped case profile The Type 1° Round, meanwhile, is the brand's signature watch.
Type 3: Known for its oil-filled dial, which eliminates reflections and gives the appearance of the dial being displayed directly on the crystal.
Type 5: A divers' style watch that also utilizes an oil-filled dial to enhance legibility underwater.
Type 2: Features the e-Crown, blending traditional mechanical watchmaking with smart technology.
Type 8: The Type 8 is the most affordable Ressence watch offered by the brand, featuring a time-only display.

\n\n

\n\n

There is nothing quite like Ressence's horological perspective, and we've appreciated the Belgian brand's creativity and inventiveness since its earliest years.

\n\n

The unique methodology Ressence brought to the world of independent watchmaking in the 2010s was undoubtedly one of the decade's many highlights, and the brand hasn't stopped refining and improving its avant-garde ideas and processes in the years since.

\n\n

You can view the complete catalog for the Phillips Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction, right here.

\n\n

About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

\n\n

Independent Watchmakers: The Bridge Between Vintage And Modern Collectibles

\n\n

About Logan Baker

\n\n

Logan has spent the past decade working in watch-focused media, reporting on every aspect of the industry. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.

\n\n

Recommended Reading

\n\n

\n\n

Sylvain Pinaud Had A Whirlwind 2022. It’s Just The Beginning Of His Journey.

\n\n

Meet Simon Brette, The Fresh-Faced Frenchman That Has The Swiss Watch World Buzzing

\n",[348],63,41,6,2228,4622,147310959,"ressence","

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is thrilled to welcome you to The Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, online auction, running from 12:00 PM CET, Thursday, September 5, to 2:00 PM CET, Thursday, September 12. Featuring 70 different high-end luxury wristwatches, the sale covers everything from A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe to Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, including the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph ref. 403.032 featured above.

\n\n

– By Logan Baker

\n\n

A. Lange & Söhne only released one watch last year during Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023. They did better this year – they had two new wristwatches to show off to press, retailers, and curious clients. Both watches were from the Datograph family, and were, expectedly, as brilliant as they were attractive.

\n\n

There's a more traditional limited-edition Datograph with a blue dial and that's cased in 18k white gold, making it the first Datograph ever offered in the metal. And then there's the incredible Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen,” that – yes – is exactly as it sounds: the Datograph chronograph, paired with a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon mechanism, crafted from the brand's proprietary Honeygold alloy and featuring the coveted, and extremely rare, "Lumen" aesthetic orientation. You could call it the "ultimate" A. Lange & Söhne wristwatch for collectors – we wouldn't argue with you.

\n\n

\n\n

These two Datograph models were announced to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Datograph's legacy-defining 1999 introduction. That's wonderful – however, 2024 happens to mark a large number of other important anniversaries for the brand as well.

\n\n

That’s right, it's officially 30 years since A. Lange & Söhne was successfully reborn under the leadership of Günter Blümlein and descendent Walter Lange, which means this year is also the 30th birthday for the brand's founding collection: the Lange 1, the Saxonia, the Arkade, and the Tourbillon Pour Le Mérite.

\n\n

But we’re focusing on the Datograph here.

\n\n

Launched in 1999, the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph has widely been regarded by collectors as one of the finest modern chronograph wristwatches produced by any firm. Since its re-establishment, A. Lange & Söhne has been creating some of the most impressive timepieces executed to the highest quality.

\n\n

The Datograph houses the Lange in-house flyback chronograph caliber L951.1 – a movement that was part of a changing landscape in terms of how enthusiasts, collectors, and the industry think about chronographs. Before its debut, little had occurred in the way of development of classic high-end chronograph movements for many years.

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The movement is expertly finished throughout with Glashütte stripes and a signature hand-engraved balance cock. The oversized date window display, particular to Lange wristwatches, inspired by the Dresden Semper Opera clock, sits perfectly legible at the 12 o’clock position.

\n\n

The first generation of the Datograph featured a 39mm diameter case without a power reserve indication, giving the dial a clean and simplistic appeal. Further, the combination of platinum case with a black dial is the original Datograph that captured the admiration of so many collectors and connoisseurs when it first appeared at Baselworld in 1999.

\n\n

The reference 403.035 even has a number of tiny peculiarities that set the earliest Datographs apart from their later counterparts and will excite keen-eyed connoisseurs. First-generation examples, for instance, feature a dial that reads “METER” rather than “meters” on the tachymeter track. It’s only seen in pieces produced before 2005.

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\n\n

Since its introduction, the Datograph has expanded into a family of models including the Datograph Perpetual and the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon, as well as the Datograph Up/Down Lumen, and related models like 2004's 1815 chronograph on one end of the complexity scale, and models such as the Double Split (also from 2004) and the Triple Split on the other. Common to all is the placement of the chronograph sub-registers at 4:00 and 8:00, rather than 3:00 and 9:00 as is often the case in two-register chronographs.

\n\n

The ref. 403.035 remained in production in its original configuration from 1999 to 2012. Because of such a long run, it's the most common Datograph. This is the reference that premiered to much fanfare at the 1999 Basel Fair and forced everyone who wasn't already aware of Lange – and by then, most connoisseurs were – to sit up and pay attention.

\n\n

The Datograph UP/DOWN, known as "AUF/AB" in German, was introduced in December 2011. Its biggest update was the inclusion of a power reserve indicator at six o'clock. Other enhancements to the new Datograph include an increased case diameter of 41mm, up from the original 39mm, and an extended power reserve of 60 hours compared to the previous 38 hours.

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\n\n

One other aesthetic change was the replacement of Roman numerals on the dial with baton markers. Additionally, the size of the big date window has been increased by four percent to maintain the original proportions.

\n\n

The updated column-wheel, flyback chronograph now features a larger mainspring barrel and an in-house balance spring, replacing the original Nivarox spring. The movement decoration, however, remains as stunning as ever.

\n\n

You can view the complete catalog for the Phillips Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction, right here.

\n\n

About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

\n\n

A. Lange & Söhne Reveals One-of-a-Kind Datograph Up/Down “Hampton Court Edition”

\n\n

About Logan Baker

\n\n

Recommended Reading

\n\n

\n\n

The Top 10 A. Lange & Söhne Results at Phillips (So Far!)

\n\n

Fifteen Years Of The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk

\n",[357],49,37,5,2227,4642,148251301,"a-lange-sohne","

\n\n

– By Logan Baker

\n\n

In the world of watch collecting, there are those timepieces that capture the hearts and minds of enthusiasts worldwide – models like the Omega Speedmaster or the Rolex Submariner.

\n\n

Then, there are those hidden gems that, while lesser-known, carry an undeniable charm and intrigue all their own. One such piece is the Seiko Izul, a watch line that few outside Japan have even heard of, yet it offers an intriguing mix of avant-garde design, technical innovation, and rare collectibility.

\n\n

Manufactured exclusively for the Japanese domestic market from 2007 to 2009, the Izul remains a fascinating chapter in Seiko's storied history, combining the heritage of Olympic chronographs with a futuristic aesthetic and groundbreaking mechanics.

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\n\n

From the very first glance, the Seiko Izul makes a striking impression. Its 47mm titanium case, a significant size even by today's standards, is bold and unapologetic. This choice is one of the first indicators that Seiko's approach with the Izul line was unconventional. Designed to stand out, the Izul's aesthetic was inspired by Olympic chronographs, yet it pushes the boundaries with a case construction that is as much about form as it is about function.

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One of the most notable features is the unique crown and pushers positioning at 12 o'clock that recalls vintage stopwatches. Adding to the uniqueness, the Izul was available in two case constructions: a standard one, and a more innovative version that allowed the dial to be rotated upside-down.

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This kind of versatility speaks to Seiko's desire to create a watch that could be adapted to different contexts and worn in multiple ways, enhancing its utility for various activities. The case design itself is vertically asymmetric, with shorter and higher top lugs, which causes the dial to incline slightly towards the wearer – an ergonomically sound decision reminiscent of a driver's watch. This detail is not just a quirk; it’s a deliberate design choice that makes the Izul highly practical and comfortable on the wrist, especially for those who appreciate functionality alongside flair.

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When Seiko launched the Izul, it positioned the line alongside some of its most prestigious sub-brands – Credor, Grand Seiko, and Galante. Seiko was signaling to the watch community that the Izul was meant to represent the pinnacle of its watchmaking prowess, encompassing both technical excellence and high-end design. However, this positioning soon proved to be both a blessing and a curse.

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While Grand Seiko and Credor have long been revered for their craftsmanship and elegant aesthetics, the Izul’s bold, modern design didn’t quite resonate with its intended audience.

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For the Japanese market, which tends to favor more understated styles, the Izul's large size and unorthodox design choices were perhaps a step too far. As a result, the Izul line faced a lukewarm reception and was quietly discontinued after just a few years. However, this very fact has turned the Izul into one of the rarest finds in Seiko’s catalog – a hidden gem that even many seasoned collectors might not have encountered.

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What truly elevates the Seiko Izul beyond its avant-garde aesthetics is its mechanical heart – the Spring Drive caliber 5R85. The Spring Drive is one of Seiko’s most significant technological achievements, representing decades of development and innovation. While the concept for the Spring Drive was born in the early 1980s, with the first patents requested in 1982, it wasn’t until 1999 that the technology was finally commercialized.

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The Spring Drive is known for its revolutionary architecture that replaces the traditional oscillating balance wheel with a continuously revolving gear. In a Spring Drive movement, energy is stored in a mainspring, just like a mechanical watch. However, instead of using an escapement to release that energy, the Spring Drive uses a glide wheel that rotates continuously.

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This glide wheel is regulated by a quartz crystal and an integrated circuit, which work in conjunction to maintain an incredibly precise timekeeping rate. As a result, the seconds hand of a Spring Drive watch moves in an absolutely smooth, gliding motion, unlike the ticking or sweeping motions of traditional mechanical or quartz watches. The smooth sweep of the seconds hand is both mesmerizing and a hallmark of Spring Drive technology, offering a visual and technical distinction that sets these watches apart from anything else on the market.

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The Seiko Izul is as a fascinating piece of Seiko's modern history. In an era where luxury watchmaking often revolves around heritage and convention, the Izul is a testament to Seiko’s willingness to break the mold and experiment with new ideas. This spirit of innovation is something that has always set Seiko apart in the watch world. From the development of the world's first quartz wristwatch in 1969 to the unveiling of the Spring Drive technology, Seiko has consistently pushed the boundaries of what is possible in horology. The Izul is yet another example of this pioneering spirit.

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Today, the Seiko Izul is considered a rare find, often flying under the radar of even the most dedicated Seiko collectors. One example even sold for a remarkable sum of CHF 60,480 at Phillips Geneva, in November 2022.

\n\n

The Seiko Izul may not have found widespread acclaim in its time, but its story is far from over. As the watch collecting community becomes more aware of the uniqueness of the Izul, its reputation as a cult classic is beginning to take shape. In an industry that often looks to the past for inspiration, the Izul's story serves as a reminder that some of the most exciting horological treasures are those that dared to defy convention.

\n\n

Another Seiko Izul example recently arrived in the Phillips office and is included in our Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction (lot 31). It dates to 2008, is preserved in excellent condition, and comes complete with its full set of accessories. You can take a closer look at the watch – and place a bid – right here.

\n\n

You can view the complete Phillips Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction catalog here.

\n\n

About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

\n\n

Specialists' Picks: The Geneva Sessions, Online Auction, Fall 2024

\n\n

About Logan Baker

\n\n

Recommended Reading

\n\n

\n\n

The Importance of the Urwerk UR-103

\n\n

\n",[365,366,367],0,4,2220,4649,148647955,"seiko","seiko-izul","japanese-watchmaking","

\n\n

– By Logan Baker

\n\n

When Urwerk debuted the UR-103 in 2003, it signaled a revolutionary shift in the world of independent watchmaking.

\n\n

It was a daring leap away from the conventional watch design language of the time, and its creation marked the emergence of a new era in independent watchmaking.

\n\n

Conceived by Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei, founders of Urwerk, the UR-103 was the result of nearly three years of development and two additional years of testing. This watch encapsulated the duo's adventurous spirit, their fascination with science fiction and comic books, and their dedication to pushing the boundaries of haute horlogerie. The UR-103 quickly became a symbol of unbridled creativity and a milestone in the history of both the brand and of contemporary watchmaking as a whole.

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Prior to the UR-103, Urwerk had made a name for itself with the UR-101 and UR-102 models, which, while innovative, still adhered to more traditional circular watch designs.

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The UR-103, however, broke all the rules. It was a watch that defied classification. It featured a unique, avant-garde design that looked more like a piece of futuristic art than a traditional timepiece. This bold departure set the tone for Urwerk's future creations and positioned the brand as a leader in independent watchmaking – a movement that's now synonymous with a fearless approach to design and engineering.

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The UR-103's case design was unlike anything seen before. Mixing geometric curves and blending them into a rectangular bombé shape, the case was simultaneously angular and organic. The top portion of the "dial" was adorned with engraved lines, giving the watch an industrial and almost architectural appearance. This was juxtaposed with a smooth, polished bottom portion where the passage of time took center stage.

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\n\n

At the heart of the UR-103 was its unique method of time indication. Instead of traditional hour and minute hands, Urwerk utilized a system of rotating satellite discs. The hours were etched onto these rotating satellites, which orbited a central axis. As each satellite passed along a 60-minute track, the correct hour aligned with the corresponding minute marker, allowing the exact time to be read instantly.

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The slanting sides of the hour satellites also allowed for time reading without the need to turn the wrist – a subtle yet significant ergonomic consideration that underscored Urwerk's commitment to innovation. The luminous green Super-LumiNova set against the matte black dial enhanced legibility and provided a striking contrast, making the watch as functional as it was visually interesting.

\n\n

The caseback of the UR-103 was no less impressive. Known as the "control board," it featured a power reserve indicator, a sub-dial for precise to-the-minute time setting, and an adjustment screw. This screw allowed the wearer to fine-tune the watch’s timing to an accuracy of +/- 30 seconds per day – a remarkable level of control that put the wearer in the driver’s seat of horological precision.

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The oversized crown positioned at 12 o'clock was another standout feature. Its design, reminiscent of a rocket booster, was a nod to the sci-fi inspirations that influenced Baumgartner and Frei. This crown not only reinforced the watch’s futuristic aesthetic but also provided an intuitive and comfortable means of winding and setting the time.

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The UR-103 is a true statement watch, a horological sculpture that represents the creative ideal of independent watchmaking. Each element of its design, from the shape of the case to the rotating satellite time display, reflects Urwerk's philosophy of challenging the status quo and reimagining what a watch can be.

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Produced through 2010, the UR-103 was made in a variety of metals and styles, including white gold, rose gold, platinum, and even platinum black PE-CVD. Each iteration offered a different expression of the UR-103’s core design language while retaining its distinctive and futuristic appeal.

\n\n

The specific UR-103 under discussion here is number three of a 25-piece limited edition. Offered in excellent overall condition, this 18k white gold example is part of the Phillips Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction and captures the essence of Urwerk's design philosophy; it dates to 2003 and carries an estimate between CHF 20,000 and 40,000.

\n\n

For collectors of independent watches, the UR-103 represents a unique opportunity to own a piece of horological history. It is a watch that not only tells the time but also tells a story – a story of creativity, independence, and a bold reimagining of what a timepiece can be.

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\n\n

As an icon of 21st-century watchmaking, the UR-103 is a must-have in the collection of any serious enthusiast of independent watchmakers. It is a watch that, even years after its discontinuation, continues to captivate and inspire.

\n\n

It laid the groundwork for future innovations from Urwerk and other independent brands, proving that there is always room for new ideas in watchmaking. The UR-103 will always hold a special place as a pioneer and an inspiration for generations to come.

\n\n

You can view the complete Phillips Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction catalog here.

\n\n

About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

\n\n

Specialists' Picks: The Geneva Sessions, Online Auction, Fall 2024

\n\n

About Logan Baker

\n\n

Recommended Reading

\n\n

\n\n

\n\n

\n",[374],3,2219,4647,148647997,"Urwerk","

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is excited to announce The Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024, online auction, taking place from 12:00 PM HKT, Friday, September 20, to 2:00 PM HKT, Friday, September 27. Featuring more than 135 different high-end luxury wristwatches, the sale covers everything from A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe to Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. It even includes two of the Parmigiani Fleurier wristwatches featured in this article.

\n\n

– By Logan Baker

\n\n

A few names immediately spring to mind when you think of fine Swiss watchmaking.

\n\n

You know them. They're Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Rolex, and so on. However, serious enthusiasts and collectors will know that the watch world is far broader and deeper than those household names.

\n\n

\n\n

One of the industry's most underappreciated gems is Parmigiani Fleurier, a Swiss watch company that stands out for its dedication to artistry, craftsmanship, and innovation. While the brand may not have the century-old pedigree of some of its peers, its impact on contemporary watchmaking is undeniably significant.

\n\n

As part of understanding the catalog for our just-announced Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction, we'll delve into the background of Parmigiani Fleurier and its founder Michel Parmigiani, as well as explore its various collections, discuss its impressive manufacturing capabilities, and provide a bit of insight into some of its remarkable work over the years, all of which make it a worthy consideration for collectors.

\n\n

A Brief History

\n\n

Parmigiani Fleurier was founded in 1996 by its eponym, Michel Parmigiani, a Swiss watchmaker and master restorationist with a passion for traditional watchmaking techniques and an uncompromising commitment to quality.

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Before establishing his company, Parmigiani – the man – spent decades honing his skills in the restoration of antique timepieces. This background profoundly shaped his philosophy: to create modern watches that celebrate the craftsmanship and spirit of classical watchmaking.

\n\n

The creation of Parmigiani Fleurier came at a pivotal moment for the Swiss watch industry. The Quartz Revolution of the 1970s and 1980s had decimated many traditional Swiss watchmakers, and the mechanical watch was only just beginning to see a resurgence in interest from collectors. In this landscape, Michel Parmigiani saw an opportunity to create a new kind of watch company – one that married the best of traditional watchmaking with modern technology and design.

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Supported by the Sandoz Family Foundation, a key investor who appreciated his work in restoration and believed in his vision, Parmigiani was able to establish a vertically integrated manufacture in the small village of Fleurier. This unique arrangement allows the brand to control every aspect of production, from design and development to manufacturing and assembly.

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Its this level of control has enabled Parmigiani Fleurier to produce watches of exceptional quality and complexity, with a focus on hand-finishing and attention to detail that remains rare in the world of high-end Swiss watchmaking.

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Vertical Integration

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One of the distinguishing features of Parmigiani Fleurier is its vertical integration, which allows the brand to have complete control over the entire production process.

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Unlike many other watch brands that source parts from various suppliers, Parmigiani Fleurier can rely on its own network of specialized companies to produce nearly every component of its watches. This independence not only ensures the highest quality but also enables the brand to innovate and push the boundaries of what is possible in watchmaking.

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Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier

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Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier is the heart of Parmigiani Fleurier's movement production. Founded in 2003 (and also owned by the Sandoz Family Foundation), Vaucher specializes in developing and producing high-end mechanical movements and modules.

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It serves not only Parmigiani Fleurier but also other prestigious watch brands. Vaucher’s capabilities range from designing simple, manual-wind calibers to creating complex, highly decorated movements with multiple complications, such as chronographs, tourbillons, and perpetual calendars.

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The collaboration between Parmigiani Fleurier and Vaucher is seamless, as both entities share a commitment to quality and innovation. Parmigiani's integration with Vaucher allows it to produce some of the most tremendous and technically advanced movements in Switzerland, such as the high-beat split-seconds chronograph caliber PF361 found in the brand's rattrapante chronographs.

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Atokalpa

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Atokalpa is another essential subsidiary in the Parmigiani ecosystem, specializing in the production of critical components for mechanical movements, particularly escapements and balance springs. As one of the few companies in Switzerland capable of manufacturing balance springs – a critical component of a watch's regulating organ – Atokalpa plays a significant role in ensuring the precision and reliability of Parmigiani watches.

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Elwin

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Elwin is a precision micro-mechanics company that focuses on producing tiny components like gear wheels, pinions, screws, and other essential parts used in mechanical watchmaking. Elwin has the ability to produce components with tolerances in the micron range, a testament to the brand's commitment to excellence.

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Les Artisans Boîtiers

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Les Artisans Boîtiers is responsible for crafting the exquisite cases that house Parmigiani Fleurier’s movements. Les Artisans Boîtiers produces cases that perfectly match the aesthetic and technical requirements of each watch. The ability to produce cases in-house allows Parmigiani to explore creative designs rather than fit into the cookie-cutter box of what already exists.

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Quadrance et Habillage

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Quadrance et Habillage is dedicated to dial production for Parmigiani Fleurier watches. From classic guilloché patterns to more contemporary finishes, this specialized firm is capable of creating a wide range of dial designs that reflect Parmigiani's philosophy of combining artistry with technical prowess. The intricate dials produced by Quadrance et Habillage often feature hand-applied markers, finely crafted textures, and other decorative techniques that elevate a watch's overall aesthetic.

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The People Behind The Brand

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Beyond its manufacturing ability, Parmigiani Fleurier has also been shaped by the exceptional talents of several renowned watchmakers who have contributed to the brand’s development over the years.

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Kari Voutilainen

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Kari Voutilainen, a Finnish watchmaker known for his dedication to traditional watchmaking techniques and unparalleled finishing skills, worked at Parmigiani Fleurier early in his career. During his time at Parmigiani, Voutilainen was involved in restoration work and in the development of unique, high-complication pieces. His influence on the brand can be seen in its attention to detail and the high level of hand-finishing applied to its movements and components. Voutilainen's later work, after establishing his own independent brand, continues to echo the traditional craftsmanship principles he embraced while at Parmigiani.

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Stepan Sarpaneva

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Stepan Sarpaneva, another Finnish watchmaker known for his avant-garde designs and distinctive moonphase complications, also spent time honing his skills at Parmigiani Fleurier. Sarpaneva's exposure to Parmigiani's focus on intricate detailing and mechanical innovation provided a solid foundation for his future endeavors. While Sarpaneva's current work under his own brand is more contemporary and artistic, his time at Parmigiani Fleurier helped shape his technical acumen and understanding of fine watchmaking.

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Raúl Pagès

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Raúl Pagès is another name associated with Parmigiani Fleurier who has since established himself as an independent watchmaker. Known for his beautiful craftsmanship and artistic approach to watchmaking, Pagès began his career working on restoration projects at Parmigiani. The exposure to antique timepieces and complex restoration work during his tenure had a profound impact on his approach to creating mechanical marvels that blend art and science. His own creations, such as the Régulateur à Détente RP1, reflect the meticulous attention to detail and technical skill that he developed during his time at Parmigiani.

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The Collections

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For more than 25 years, Parmigiani Fleurier has a number of collections that offer something for every discerning watch enthusiast. The catalog has been diverse, and not all are still offered by the brand. You'll find an overview of a few of Parmigiani's key collections over the years, both past and present, below.

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Toric Collection

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The Toric Collection is Parmigiani Fleurier's inaugural collection and remains a cornerstone of the brand's identity. Introduced in 1996, the Toric line was designed by Michel Parmigiani himself and reflects his deep understanding of classical aesthetics and proportions. The original Toric watches are characterized by their fluted bezels, which are inspired by ancient Greek and Roman architecture, and their elegant, rounded cases.

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Beyond the aesthetics, the Toric collection is known for housing some of the most intricate complications that Parmigiani Fleurier has ever produced. From perpetual calendars to tourbillons and minute repeaters, the Toric line embodies the brand's commitment to technical excellence.

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Models like the Toric Hemispheres Retrograde, which features dual time zones and a retrograde date display, showcase the brand's ability to combine practical functionality with artistic flair. Others, like the Memory Time (the very first Parmigiani wristwatch), highlighted the watchmaker's whimsical flair.

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Tonda Collection

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The Tonda Collection is perhaps the most versatile and widely recognized line from Parmigiani Fleurier. Launched in the early 2000s, the Tonda collection serves as a canvas for a wide array of complications, from simple three-hand models to highly sophisticated pieces featuring chronographs, calendars, and tourbillons. The collection is defined by its round cases, teardrop-shaped lugs, and minimalist yet refined dials.

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One of my favorite pieces in the Tonda collection is the Tonda Chronor Anniversaire, released in 2016 to celebrate the brand's 20th anniversary. It was Parmigiani Fleurier's first integrated high-beat chronograph with a split-seconds function – a significant milestone that marked the brand's entry into the highly competitive world of high-complication chronographs. This model was lauded for its innovative design and the beauty of its movement, the PF361, which is crafted from 18k rose gold – a serious watchmaking feat.

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Ionica Collection

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The Ionica Collection is a tribute to Parmigiani's commitment to elegance and artisanal craftsmanship. These watches are characterized by their more traditional designs, often featuring classical Roman numerals, Breguet hands, and highly decorated dials. The Ionica models are particularly known for their hand-guilloché dials. The Ionica watches often house complications like moon phases and perpetual calendars, aligning them with the brand's ethos of combining artistic design with technical prowess.

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Tonda PF Collection

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The Tonda PF Collection is a relatively recent addition to Parmigiani Fleurier's lineup, launched in 2021 to mark the brand’s 25th anniversary, it was the first new series of watches released under current brand CEO Guido Terreni, former president and managing director of Bulgari watchmaking.

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The Tonda PF collection takes the Tonda's signature elements and refines them further, presenting a sleeker, more contemporary aesthetic that better appeals to today's watch enthusiasts. The collection features models like the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor and the Tonda PF Chronograph, which are characterized by their minimalist dials, integrated bracelets, and a refined sense of understated luxury. The Tonda PF collection has been an outsize success for Parmigiani since its introduction, invigorating existing collectors around the world and attracting new attention.

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Ovale Pantographe

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The Ovale Pantographe is arguably one of Parmigiani Fleurier's most unique and technically impressive collections. Inspired by an antique pocket watch that Michel Parmigiani restored, the Ovale Pantographe features telescopic hands that expand and contract to follow the contours of the oval-shaped dial. This dynamic mechanism is both a technical marvel and a visual delight, reflecting the brand's inventive spirit.

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The Ovale Pantographe models often come equipped with other complications, such as retrograde displays, making them highly sought after by collectors who appreciate rare and unconventional timepieces. The collection is a testament to Parmigiani's creativity and willingness to push the boundaries of traditional watchmaking.

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Kalpa Collection

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Introduced in 2001, the Parmigiani Kalpa collection is characterized by its distinctive tonneau case, combining elegant curves and ergonomics with technical sophistication. Some models, like the Kalpa Hebdomadaire, featured an eight-day power reserve, while others incorporate chronograph and other complications, while others, like the Kalpagraphe offered sporty chronograph design with a self-winding movement inside. The curved barrel case of the Kalpa watches is designed to fit comfortably on the wrist, enhancing both aesthetics and comfort.

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Bugatti Collection

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Parmigiani Fleurier began a corporate relationship with the legendary luxury automaker Bugatti since 2006, when it launched the Type 370 watch, inspired by the Bugatti Veyron. Over the years, the Bugatti collection grew, consistently featuring movements with unique architecture. It included various iterations of the Type 370 and, more recently, the Type 390, introduced in 2016. The Type 390 watch drew inspiration from the Bugatti Chiron, the successor to the Veyron, which was also unveiled in 2016 at the Geneva Auto Show. The Parmigiani and Bugatti partnership officially ended in 2019.

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Complications

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Parmigiani Fleurier has developed and manufactured an impressive range of complications, from chronographs and split-seconds chronographs to tourbillons and perpetual calendars. Each complication is designed and crafted in-house, a testament to the brand's dedication to maintaining the highest standards of watchmaking.

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Chronographs and Split-Seconds Chronographs

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The chronograph is one of the most popular complications among watch collectors, and Parmigiani Fleurier has made a significant mark in this domain. For example, the brand’s split-seconds chronograph caliber PF361 runs in 5 Hz and features an integrated architecture with a column-wheel mechanism and a vertical clutch.

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Tourbillons

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Parmigiani Fleurier has also demonstrated its prowess in crafting tourbillons, a complication that is often seen as the pinnacle of mechanical watchmaking. The company's Toric Tourbillon and Kalpa Tourbillon models showcase the technical complexity of a tourbillon movement. The tourbillons in these models are often paired with other complications, such as minute repeaters or perpetual calendars, further highlighting the brand's commitment to creating truly exceptional timepieces.

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Perpetual Calendars and Beyond

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Perpetual calendars are another area where Parmigiani Fleurier excels. The brand’s Toric Perpetual Calendar and Tonda Perpetual Calendar models display the day, date, month, and leap year cycle in a harmonious layout. These watches are powered by the in-house caliber PF333.

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Interestingly, Parmigiani Fleurier is one of the few watchmakers to tackle calendar complications beyond the conventional Gregorian calendar. These so-called "cultural calendars" involve integrating complex calendrical systems, representing the Hebrew, Islamic, Chinese, and Buddhist calendars. Hebrew calendars are based on the lunar cycle and years based on the solar cycle, requiring adjustments to align the two. Islamic calendar, also known as the Hijri calendar, are purely lunar calendars used by Muslims worldwide. It consists of 12 lunar months in a year of either 354 or 355 days.

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The Chinese calendar is a lunisolar calendar similar to the Hebrew calendar, including months and years based on the phases of the Moon and the Sun's position. The Chinese calendar also features a 60-year cycle that combines the 12-year cycle of animal signs with a 10-year cycle of celestial stems. Finally, the Buddhist lunisolar calendar actually varies by region; Parmigiani's take on the Buddhist calendar is able to accommodate each unique cycle as well as significant Buddhist holidays.

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Why Collect Parmigiani Fleurier?

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So, why should a collector consider Parmigiani Fleurier?

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The answer lies in the brand's unique combination of traditional craftsmanship, technical innovation, and artistic integrity. Unlike many larger watch companies that may rely on mass production or marketing-driven strategies, Parmigiani Fleurier is an independent operation completely dedicated to the art of watchmaking.

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Another compelling reason to collect Parmigiani Fleurier is the brand's relative rarity. With a limited annual production of around 5,000 pieces, Parmigiani watches are far less common than those from many of its competitors.

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Lastly, Parmigiani Fleurier watches offer a level of craftsmanship and finishing that is comparable to some of the most prestigious names in the industry, often at a more accessible price point. Whether you're drawn to the elegant curves of the Toric collection, the modern appeal of the Tonda PF, or the mechanical wonder of the Ovale Pantographe, Parmigiani Fleurier offers something for every collector who appreciates fine watchmaking.

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Parmigiani Fleurier may not have the widespread recognition of some of its Swiss counterparts, but for those in the know, it represents the very best of what the watch industry has to offer.

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Its commitment to quality, innovation, and the preservation of traditional watchmaking techniques makes it a brand that deserves a place in any serious watch collection. With its wide range of collections, impressive array of complications, and vertically integrated production capabilities, Parmigiani Fleurier is a true hidden gem for discerning watch collectors.

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You can view the complete catalog for the Phillips Watches Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction, right here.

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About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

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Specialists' Picks: The Geneva Sessions, Online Auction, Fall 2024

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About Logan Baker

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Recommended Reading

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The Importance of the Urwerk UR-103

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\n",[383],54,43,2,2218,4650,148647941,"parmigiani-fleurier","

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– By Logan Baker

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Over the past decade, a fresh wave of independent watchmakers has emerged, reviving classical horological values while simultaneously pushing the boundaries of what it means to be a craftsperson in this industry.

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Among them is Pascal Coyon, a watch and clock repairer based in Bayonne, in the southwest of France. Known for his beautifully crafted, traditionally inspired wristwatches, Coyon is part of a burgeoning movement that emphasizes meticulous craftsmanship, classical aesthetics, and affordability – a trifecta that has made his work a darling among collectors and enthusiasts alike.

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Pascal Coyon's journey into watchmaking is rooted in his background as a restorationist, a role that has imparted him with a profound understanding of both the mechanical intricacies and historical heritage of timepieces. Around 2012, armed with years of expertise and a growing desire to create something truly his own, Coyon embarked on a journey to develop a chronometer wristwatch that would stand out for its superlative finishing and classic appeal.

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A year and a half later, his first prototype was born, marking the beginning of his entry into the world of independent watchmaking.

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Coyon's watches are a marriage of tradition and technical prowess. Inspired by 20th-century pocket watch movements, celebrated for their robustness and reliability, Coyon set out to create a wristwatch that embodied these qualities. He started by using the Unitas 6498 as a base for his movement – a tried-and-tested workhorse caliber often favored by watchmakers for its large size and reliable construction.

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But Coyon’s approach to the Unitas 6498 was anything but ordinary. His modifications were so extensive and intricate that the original movement became virtually unrecognizable. The result? The caliber 1900, a manual-wind movement that combines classical aesthetics with a modern-day execution.

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While many independent watchmakers focus on designing unique dials or cases, Coyon's passion lies in the heart of the watch: the movement. His movements are clearly inspired by the era of early 20th-century pocket watches, but a closer inspection reveals a level of finish and decoration that is rarely seen at his price point.

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Coyon’s movement modifications are centered around aesthetics and performance.

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The movement is meticulously decorated with elegantly curved bridges and polished angles that catch and play with light. The sandblasted finish throughout gives the movement a matte, almost frosted look, which contrasts beautifully with the polished elements. One of the most distinctive features of Coyon’s work is the comma-shaped regulator index, designed for micrometric adjustment. This small but crucial detail showcases Coyon’s commitment to precision, blending utility with an artistic touch.

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The pièce de résistance of the movement, however, is the viper head stamped at the base of the balance cock. This hallmark – the Tête de Vipère – signifies that the watch has undergone the rigorous Besançon Observatory trials, an accolade that attests to the watch's chronometric excellence.

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The Besançon Observatory trials, for reference, are the French equivalent of the COSC certification in Switzerland but with arguably even more stringent standards. Achieving this certification is a genuine badge of honor, reflecting both the skill of the watchmaker and the precision of the timepiece.

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Coyon’s first collection is not only a tribute to classic horology but also a study in exclusivity. He produced just 60 movements in total, spread across three distinct finishes: 20 in yellow, 20 in pink, and 20 in silver.

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The attention to detail extends beyond the movement and into the dial work. Coyon opted for a simple yet elegant white lacquer dial, adding a layer of vintage charm. Collectors had the choice of a dial with or without a red “12” (you'll see both pictured here), a stylistic feature that pays homage to pocket watches of the past.

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The present example, part of the Phillips Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction, offered by its original owner, is in excellent condition and comes complete with its full set of accessories. It carries an estimate set between CHF 5,000 and 10,000. It's only the second Pascal Coyon wristwatch we've had the pleasure to offer in an auction, following a similar Chronomètre Series 1 that sold for CHF 21,420 at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIV, in November 2021.

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In an industry often dominated by Swiss heavyweights, Coyon is carving out a niche that places French craftsmanship on the global horological map. His dedication to producing hand-finished timepieces at a relatively affordable price challenges the notion that high-quality mechanical watches must come with an exorbitant price tag.

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By combining time-honored techniques with contemporary sensibilities, Coyon creates watches that resonate with a new generation of collectors who value authenticity, heritage, and a story.

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More recently, Pascal Coyon introduced his Chronomètre Series 2, an updated take on his Series 1 design that was announced in late 2019 and featured an improved in-house movement and new dial options, for a price of €30,500.

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You can view the complete Phillips Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction catalog here.

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About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

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Specialists' Picks: The Geneva Sessions, Online Auction, Fall 2024

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About Logan Baker

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Recommended Reading

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The Importance of the Urwerk UR-103

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\n",[330,390,391],1,2217,4648,148647972,"pascal-coyon","french-watchmaking","

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is thrilled to welcome you to The Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, online auction, running from 12:00 PM CET, Thursday, September 5, to 2:00 PM CET, Thursday, September 12. Featuring 70 different high-end luxury wristwatches, the sale covers everything from A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe to Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, including the various staff highlights featured below.

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We have some good news and bad news to share.

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The not-so-great news? Well, we're now in the heart of September, and it's fair to say that summer in the Northern Hemisphere is officially over.

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The good news, however, is that a new watch auction season has just begun! We kicked off our first sale of the fall 2024 season with the Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, online auction.

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It's a fantastic catalog consisting of 70 total lots, mostly focused on special and rare modern timepieces, but there's naturally a number of vintage and neo-vintage gems interspersed throughout.

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Our Geneva team of specialists and staffers couldn't be more excited to reveal the full catalog, but if you need some help in getting started, we're highlighting a number of what we think are the most underrated and interesting watches in the sale right here.

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Lot 1: A 2020 A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Automatik in 18k white gold with 'Terra Brown' dial

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Estimate: CHF 12,000 - 24,000

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Tiffany To, Head of Sale

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My favourite watch in the sale is the Saxonia Automatik as it is the perfect example of how a brand can tweak small details to turn a watch from something attractive and well-made, to one that is extraordinary.

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With an eye-catching 38.5 millimeter case in white gold and featuring an arresting "Terra Brown" dial, the present watch is an exceedingly rare and attractive edition of the classic Saxonia Automatic. Made to commemorate the grand reopening of A. Lange & Söhne's Ginza boutique in Tokyo in 2016, the model was released in highly limited numbers to the brand's very best and loyal clients. While not an official limited production run, very few examples were produced. Alongside the white gold case, the brand also launched the model in pink gold.
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\nThe "Terra Brown" dial itself is very attractive, and invigorates the classic model. A milky brown shade, it also has a beautiful sheen that comes from the solid silver base, which changes slightly in tone depending on the light.

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Lot 30: A 2003 Urwerk UR-103 in 18k white gold

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Estimate: CHF 20,000 - 40,000

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Alexandre Ghotbi, Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe, and Middle East

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The Urwerk 103 holds a special place in my heart as I perfectly remember the first time I saw one in a shop window, I was blown away in a totally irrational manner. Was it the case shape, the way time was read or the « control panel » on the back? I can’t pinpoint what it was but the watch spoke to me then and speaks to me 20 years later, which is the sign of its timelessness.

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Lot 11: A 2017 Pascal Coyon Chronomètre in stainless steel

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Estimate: CHF 5,000 - 10,000

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Arthur Touchot, International Head Of Digital Strategy, Specialist

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As the resident Frenchman on the PHILLIPS specialist team, I may have a natural inclination towards Pascal Coyon’s Chronometer #19/20. Indeed, it's always inspiring to witness a French watchmaker succeed on the global stage without having to relocate to Switzerland, particularly given Coyon's patience in earning acclaim. His dedication to his craft is evident in the exquisite finish of his chronometers, which are based on the Unitas 6498 but are reworked thoroughly to become reminiscent of 20th-century pocket watch movements.

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A key highlight on the movement side is the viper head stamp on the balance cock, a mark of precision that confirms the watch has passed the stringent Besançon Observatory trials. While PHILLIPS has sold another example in the past, I find the details of this piece, such as the yellow-finished movement and the understated dial without red accents, more appealing. For collectors seeking a beautifully made “Fab. In France” (made in France) wristwatch that tells a story of passion and perseverance, Coyon's Chronometer #19/20 ticks all the boxes.

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Lot 6: A 2013 Patek Philippe World Time ref. 5131G-001 in 18k white gold

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Estimate: CHF 60,000 - 120,000

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Marcello de Marco, Senior International Specialist

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As an enthusiast of vintage timepieces, I simply cannot resist the allure of a cloisonné world time Patek Philippe. with the vintage examples undisputably numbered among the most important vintage creations from any brand, the modern iterations pack the same aesthetic punch and bring the lineage to modernity.

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The colorful cloisonné dial makes these models strike the perfect balance between vintage inspired stateliness and whimsical lightheartedness, and arguably this white gold version has the highest versatility in terms of strap matching. furthermore, this discontinued model features 40 mm diameter, a size that I personally consider a “sweet spot” for wearability.

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Lot 53: A circa 2000 Breguet Bi-Retrograde Tourbillon Ref. 3657 in 18k yellow gold

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Estimate: CHF 25,000 - 50,000

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Clément Finet, Watchmaker, Senior Watch Specialist

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Being a Frenchman with, I have to admit, rather "classical tastes," I can’t help but choose a Breguet today… And what a Breguet! When one thinks of Abraham-Louis B., one word, or should I say « complication », comes to mind immediately and that is Tourbillon of course. The Tourbillon has always fascinated. Not only is it a technical wonder. It’s also the most eye catching of all complications.

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In my eyes, Breguet equals Tourbillon and vice versa. Thus, if had to choose a Tourbillon, I would inevitably fall for a Breguet and it just so happens that we are offering my favorite version of it (Reference 3657) in this online auction. Check it out. It’s rather « big » size (40 mm) and asymmetric dial layout should blow you away. Simply stunning. It's Breguet at it’s best!

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Lot 29: A circa 2015 Parmigiani Fleurier Ovale Pantographe in 18k pink gold

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Estimate: CHF 3,000 - 6,000

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Logan Baker, Senior Editorial Manager

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Michel Parmigiani’s reference points in horological design are as diverse as the watchmaker’s imagination, with sprinklings of influence arriving via his many restoration projects, where he encounters rare and obscure complications. A case in point is the Ovale Pantographe, a masterpiece whose focal point is a pair of telescopic hour and minute hands engineered to extend and retract along the uneven contours of its namesake oval case.

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Parmigiani developed the watch after he encountered an 18th-century pocket watch with the exact same complication. The watch, created by the English jewelers and watchmakers Vardon and Stedman, arrived in the Parmigiani restoration workshops in 1997. But while that piece was one of a kind, the Ovale Pantographe, first premiered in 2013, is a production model crafted from modern materials, using the resources and technologies available in a state-of-the-art-horological studio. Taking a handmade curiosity and industrializing it was a challenge matched by the skill and ingenuity of Michel Parmigiani.

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While the telescopic hands do not technically constitute a horological complication – they tell the time alone – they do present Parmigiani watchmakers with a similarly significant challenge. When you consider that a typical watch hand constitutes a single part, you begin to understand what an undertaking the Ovale Pantographe is. Nevertheless, the watch is high-complication in the traditional sense intended by Swiss watchmakers – it boasts a power reserve of eight days.

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The hands alone in the Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe take approximately four days to assemble. There are 32 components to each hand. The mechanism beneath the dial that actuates the extension and retraction of the telescopic hands consists of two pawls in a cam – essentially the same mechanism that intrigued Parmigiani during the Vardon and Stedman restoration.

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The challenge for Michel Parmigiani lay in taking his inspiration, found in a pocket watch and worn in a static position, and making it suitably durable for wear on the wrist. He had to find the right compromise between the weight of the mechanism’s components, the system’s balance, and the reliability of the watch’s timekeeping.

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After an exhaustive search for the right material from which to craft the hands, Parmigiani decided on an alloy from the auto industry that consisted of aluminum with a magnesium base. This alloy was the only metal that would bend in all the necessary ways. Powering the watch itself is a movement made not of brass, or even the more common German silver. Instead, the movement is made of 18-karat gold, a metal known not just for its high price and warm luster, but also for its relative ductility.

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You can view the complete Phillips Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction catalog here.

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About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

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Atelier Wen Embraces Multiculturalism In Its Watchmaking

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Recommended Reading

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Phillips Watches Online: The Geneva Sessions, Fall 2024

70 Lots

Specialists' Picks: The Geneva Sessions, Online Auction, Fall 2024

Indie Insider: A Closer Look at Pascal Coyon and His Series 1 Chronomètre

The Collectability of Parmigiani Fleurier

The Importance of the Urwerk UR-103

What Makes The Seiko Izul So Special?

Then And Now: The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph

A Collectors' Guide to Ressence Watches

A Collectors' Guide To MB&F’s Early Horological Machines

The Indie Insider: Hautlence Is Back! Here's Why You Should Be Paying Attention

What Is A Phillips Watches Online Auction?

Atelier Wen Embraces Multiculturalism In Its Watchmaking