Specialists' Picks: The New York Watch Auction: XIV

Specialists' Picks: The New York Watch Auction: XIV

The Phillips team shares their favorite watches from the upcoming Manhattan live sale.

The Phillips team shares their favorite watches from the upcoming Manhattan live sale.

The New York Watch Auction: XIV takes place on 13 and 14 June 2026 and features 156 exceptional watches that have been thoughtfully put together by the Phillips Watches team.

For this edition of Specialists' Picks, some of have chosen individual favorites while others have paired watches together to highlight shared themes, cool contrasts, or unexpected connections. Without further ado, let’s see what our specialists have selected and why.

 

Lot 101: Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in 18K Pink Gold

Estimate: USD $1,200,000–2,400,000

Jaclyn Li, Consultant

Imagine finding a watch from 1948 that has never been touched. That is what happened when this Ref. 1518 in pink gold came our way. It is the very definition of museum quality.

Introduced in 1941, the Ref. 1518 was the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch. At the time, it was the most complicated wristwatch to have been made in series.

Lot 101: A 1948 Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in 18k pink gold, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: USD $1,200,000–2,400,000
Lot 101: A 1948 Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in 18k pink gold, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: USD $1,200,000–2,400,000

This 1948 example is the best-preserved pink gold 1518 with a silver dial that we have ever seen at Phillips. The case is truly untouched, retaining all of its original factory satin brushing. The two hallmarks, one on the mid-case and another behind a lug, remain exceptionally crisp.

My favorite detail, however, is the pushers. When examining them closely, you can see not only the faceted outer edges, but also the original satin-brushed finish across the entire surface.

 

Lot 101: A 1948 Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in 18k pink gold, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: USD $1,200,000–2,400,000
Lot 101: A 1948 Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in 18k pink gold, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: USD $1,200,000–2,400,000

The dial is equally impressive – completely unrestored, untouched, all hard enamel.

To sum up: this Ref. 1518 is a reference point for what an untouched example should look like, and a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to acquire what may be the ultimate textbook example of this landmark reference.

 

Lot 154: Rolex Ref. 116598RBOW Cosmograph Daytona "Rainbow" in 18K Yellow Gold Set with Diamonds and Sapphires

Estimate: USD $200,000–400,000

Erica Downs, Business Development Manager

Let me paint you a picture: you have a trip to the South of France coming up. You're taking a look at your collection and wondering what to wear. You realize that you don't have the watch that you need. That's because we have that watch right here: the Rolex Rainbow Daytona in yellow gold.

It’s a timepiece for someone who appreciates the importance of the Daytona but is equally drawn to Rolex’s contemporary gem-setting work.

Lot 154: A circa 2012 Rolex Ref. 116598RBOW Cosmograph Daytona "Rainbow" in 18k yellow gold set with diamonds and sapphires, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: USD $200,000–400,000
Lot 154: A circa 2012 Rolex Ref. 116598RBOW Cosmograph Daytona "Rainbow" in 18k yellow gold set with diamonds and sapphires, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: USD $200,000–400,000

And this isn’t just a watch for celebrities. I’ve seen Rainbow Daytonas on the wrists of a number of clients over the years, and it’s a piece that suits a surprisingly wide range of people.

Modern Daytonas are also wonderfully wearable. While the case measures 40mm, they tend to wear smaller than the dimensions suggest and are really comfortable on the wrist.

What I love most here, though, is the gem-setting. Rolex carefully color-matches each sapphire to create the seamless gradient that gives the Rainbow Daytona its name.

This model was produced in three metals – white gold, Everose gold, and yellow gold – and in my opinion, the yellow gold version is the only way to go!

 

Lot 10: F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance “Souscription, No. 007” in 18K Pink Gold and Platinum

Estimate: USD $1,000,000–5,000,000

Lot 17: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin-Beat Perpetual Calendar in Platinum

Estimate: USD $100,000–200,000

Isabella Proia, Senior International Specialist and Donald Kim, Associate Specialist

For this sale, we decided to surprise each other by each selecting a watch from the catalogue without revealing our choice beforehand.

Isabella chose the F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance "Souscription, No. 007." While the Résonance is famous for its dual-escapement construction, what makes this particular watch so special is its ultra-rare configuration.

Lot 10: A circa 2000 F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance “Souscription, No. 007” in 18k pink gold and platinum, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: Estimate: USD $1,000,000–5,000,000
Lot 10: A circa 2000 F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance “Souscription, No. 007” in 18k pink gold and platinum, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: Estimate: USD $1,000,000–5,000,000

This is the first time a pink gold dial, two-tone Souscription Résonance has appeared at auction. In fact, it is believed that the only other example remains in a collection that is unlikely ever to be sold, making this effectively the only opportunity to acquire one.

Lot 10: A circa 2000 F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance “Souscription, No. 007” in 18k pink gold and platinum, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: Estimate: USD $1,000,000–5,000,000
Lot 10: A circa 2000 F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance “Souscription, No. 007” in 18k pink gold and platinum, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: Estimate: USD $1,000,000–5,000,000

Donald selected something of a unicorn, even within the world of modern Vacheron Constantin: the Traditionnelle Twin-Beat Perpetual Calendar.

One of the challenges with perpetual calendars is that if the power reserve runs out, resetting the indications can be a cumbersome process.

Lot 17: A 2021 Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin-Beat Perpetual Calendar in platinum, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: USD $100,000–200,000
Lot 17: A 2021 Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin-Beat Perpetual Calendar in platinum, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: USD $100,000–200,000

The Twin-Beat addresses that problem through two operating modes – “Active” for daily wear and “Standby” for periods of inactivity – allowing the power reserve to be extended from four days to as much as 65 days. As a result, the perpetual calendar continues running even when the watch is left unworn for long periods.

 

Lot 24: Patek Philippe Ref. 3205/43 in Platinum Set with Diamonds and Rubies

Estimate: USD $50,000100,000

Lot 39: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce "Rainbow" Chronograph 18K Pink Gold Set with Diamonds and Multi-Colored Sapphires

Estimate: USD $200,000–400,000

Isabella Proia, Senior International Specialist and Jaclyn Li, Consultant

We selected these two watches because they represent two sides of the same historical coin from Patek Philippe.

Lot 24: A 1964 Patek Philippe Ref. 3205/43 in platinum set with diamonds and rubies, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: USD $50,000–100,000
Lot 24: A 1964 Patek Philippe Ref. 3205/43 in platinum set with diamonds and rubies, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: USD $50,000–100,000

The first is the Ref. 3205/43 from 1964, an extraordinary gem-set creation featuring 79 rubies and 69 diamonds. It has plenty of sparkle, but what we love most is that it follows one of the cardinal rules of jewelry design: it looks just as beautiful from the back as it does from the front.

Lot 24: A 1964 Patek Philippe Ref. 3205/43 in platinum set with diamonds and rubies, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: USD $50,000–100,000
Lot 24: A 1964 Patek Philippe Ref. 3205/43 in platinum set with diamonds and rubies, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: USD $50,000–100,000

Fast-forward 60 years and the same manufacturer, still owned by the Stern family, is creating watches like the Aquanaut Luce "Rainbow" Chronograph, whose bezel pairs a row of baguette-cut diamonds with a full spectrum of colored sapphires.

Lot 39: A 2025 Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce "Rainbow" chronograph 18k pink gold set with diamonds and multi-colored sapphires, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: USD $200,000–400,000
Lot 39: A 2025 Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce "Rainbow" chronograph 18k pink gold set with diamonds and multi-colored sapphires, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: USD $200,000–400,000

Our favorite detail is that, despite the six decades separating them, both watches employ a design built around two rows of gemstones. 

Beyond these two examples, the upcoming sale includes a number of exceptional gem-set watches. Consider it a battle of the bling!

 

Lot 92: Rolex Ref. 9630 King Midas "Buddy Bray, Elvis Sister Watch” in 18K Yellow Gold

Estimate: USD $50,000–100,000

Donald Kim, Associate Specialist

The Rolex King Midas Ref. 9630 is one of the most iconic, historic, and unconventional watches in Rolex’s history.

One of its most famous owners was “The King” himself, Elvis Presley, who received a King Midas from the officers of the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo (HLSR) in 1970 after six consecutive sold-out performances at the Houston Astrodome.

Lot 92: A circa 1972 Rolex Ref. 9630 King Midas in 18k yellow gold, consigned by the family of the original owner, the former Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo president Buddy Bray, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: USD $50,000–100,000
Lot 92: A circa 1972 Rolex Ref. 9630 King Midas in 18k yellow gold, consigned by the family of the original owner, the former Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo president Buddy Bray, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: USD $50,000–100,000

The present watch belonged to M.C. “Buddy” Bray, then president of the HLSR and the man who negotiated Elvis’s historic engagement at the Astrodome. In recognition of his role, Bray was presented with his own King Midas, number 600, in 1972 by the organization’s officers.

What makes this example particularly special are the engravings. The reverse side of the bracelet bears the names of the HLSR officers, while the caseback is an engraved dedication to Buddy Bray and records his tenure as president.

Lot 92: A circa 1972 Rolex Ref. 9630 King Midas in 18k yellow gold, consigned by the family of the original owner, the former Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo president Buddy Bray, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: USD $50,000–100,000
Lot 92: A circa 1972 Rolex Ref. 9630 King Midas in 18k yellow gold, consigned by the family of the original owner, the former Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo president Buddy Bray, included in the Phillips New York Auction: XIV. Estimate: USD $50,000–100,000

For me, this is one of the standout lots of the sale because it brings together so many great threads: Rolex, designer Gérald Genta, Elvis Presley, and a uniquely American story tied to the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo.

You can learn more about these timepieces, place a bid, and view the entire Phillips New York Watch Auction: XIV catalogue right here.

 


About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

The team of specialists at Phillips Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its DECADE ONE (2015–2025) sale having realized $83 million in 2025. The annual total for watch auctions in 2025 exceeded $290 million, marking the first time any auction house's Watches department has surpassed US$200 million in annual sales for five consecutive years.