Our final live auction of the spring 2026 season, The Phillips New York Watch Auction: XIV, takes place on 13–14 June at our Manhattan headquarters, bringing together more than 150 exceptional watches in a carefully curated sale. Ahead of the auction, we’ll be highlighting some of its most compelling timepieces and stories, including the lots featured in this article.
By Sophie Furley
The history of women’s watchmaking has often blurred the lines between horology and jewelry, where mechanical purpose and decorative expression have developed side by side. The following selection reflects this overlap, bringing together mid-century timepieces and more recent watches from the modern era. Together, they show how varied the category has always been, and how much of its appeal lies in the details, whether it is a textured gold bracelet, an original dial with a naturally developed patina, or a compelling story of provenance.
Patek Philippe Ref. 3205/43 Diamand- and Ruby-Set Platinum Timepiece from 1964
It is easy to imagine this elegant Patek Philippe ladies’ wristwatch under white opera gloves or sparkling at a high-society ball. Its round platinum case is wrapped with swirling lines of caliber-cut rubies and round brilliant-cut diamonds that encircle the case and form the bracelet.
The reference 3205 acted as a generic reference for some of Patek Philippe’s most imaginative mid-century timepieces from the mid-1950s to the mid-1960s, yet only 16 have ever appeared at auction. Fresh to the market from the family of the original owner, descendants of Patek Philippe’s Latin American Distributor, this model is making its auction debut and is most likely unique.
Patek Philippe Ref. 7140G-001 Ladies Perpetual Calendar, circa 2025
This diamond-set 18-karat white gold, 35mm timepiece from the modern era combines the elegance of a gem-set timepiece with the intellectual appeal of a perpetual calendar. Indicating the day, date, month and leap year, together with a moon phase and 24-hour indicator, this is a timepiece for women who value refinement as much as functionality. Introduced as Patek Philippe’s first perpetual calendar in 2017, the reference 7140G arrived at a time when interest from female collectors was gaining real momentum.
Rolex Ref. 1400 Cocktail, circa 1972
Rolex produced a wide variety of cocktail watches between the 1950s and 1970s. Often referred to as “Ladies Precision”, they were designed more as high-jewelry timepieces than utilitarian watches. They were powered by small manual-wind movements and came with ornate designs. This present example features a diamond-set “halo” bezel and a bold textured “hoop” linked bracelet in 14-karat yellow gold.
What makes this model even more special is its provenance. It was presented in 1972 by the Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo (HLS&R) to Elsie Ray "Bo" Bray, the wife of Buddy Bray, president of the HLS&R who helped bring Elvis Presley to the Houston Astrodome in 1970 for six sold-out performances. That same historic engagement also saw Elvis presented with his own Rolex King Midas Ref. 9630 No. 343. Buddy Bray also received a King Midas of his own, which is also being offered in the Phillips New York Watch Auction: XIV.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked “Rainbow” from 2021
Continuing the yellow gold theme, but moving forward to the year 2021, this “Rainbow” Royal Oak model also features a textured aesthetic, this time with Audemars Piguet’s signature Frosted Gold finish. Introduced in collaboration with Florentine jeweler Carolina Bucci, the technique involves repeatably tapping the gold with a diamond-tipped tool to create its shimmering, diamond-dust-like effect. Enhancing the spectacle, the watch is set with a “rainbow” bezel of multi-colored sapphires and reveals a beautifully finished openworked movement. It comes in a like-new conditions and marks the first appearance of the yellow gold model at public auction.
Cartier, Louis Cartier Tank, circa 1940s
When it comes to the Cartier Tank, the debate between mid-century or modern-day preference is almost academic as this watchmaking icon has largely kept its iconic design since it was first introduced in the 1920s. There are subtle differences over the years, of course, and differences that come with time, as can be seen on this model from the 1940s which features an original dial with a beautifully even champagne-colored patina. This subtle color has developed over time and could never be replicated, making this example truly special.
Cartier Tank Cintrée “Collection Privé, Cartier Paris”, circa 2004
This Cartier Tank Cintrée was released in 2004 under the “Collection Privé, Cartier Paris” (CPCP) label; a special line that came into being in 1998 to honor the most iconic Cartier timepieces, including the Santos, Tortue, and Tank.
The Cintrée is one of the most exclusive and well-received limited-edition series and is recognized by its slightly thinner and longer case and lugs, in comparison to the Américain. This edition from 2004 comes in platinum and was consigned by the original owner, a VIP Cartier client, who purchased no. 46/40 from the Maison’s Place Vendôme boutique.
You can learn more about these timepieces, place a bid, and view the entire Phillips New York Watch Auction: XIV catalogue right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at Phillips Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its DECADE ONE (2015–2025) sale having realized $83 million in 2025. The annual total for watch auctions in 2025 exceeded $290 million, marking the first time any auction house's Watches department has surpassed US$200 million in annual sales for five consecutive years.
About Sophie Furley
Sophie has spent the past 20 years covering watches and jewelry for leading print and digital titles, including Revolution, Telegraph Time, India Today and WorldTempus. She joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo in early 2025 as Head of Digital Marketing. Originally from the United Kingdom, she now lives on the outskirts of Geneva with her family and their dog.