Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is thrilled to welcome you to The Geneva Sessions, Spring 2025, online auction, running from 12:00 PM CET, Wednesday, 5 March, to 2:00 PM CET, Wednesday, 12 March. Featuring 70 different high-end luxury wristwatches, the sale covers everything from A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe to Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, including all the watches featured below.
– By Logan Baker
In the realm of haute horlogerie, chiming watches occupy a revered space, merging mechanical mastery with auditory artistry.
Today, we delve into two exceptional timepieces that exemplify this union: the 2024 Chopard L.U.C Strike One "Art in Time" Edition and the 1990s Girard-Perregaux Ref. 99500 Minute Repeater in platinum. While both celebrate the tradition of chiming complications, they do so through distinct philosophies and innovations.
A 2024 Chopard L.U.C Strike One "Art in Time" Edition in Stainless Steel with Salmon Dial
Unveiled in 2024 as an ultra-exclusive eight-piece limited edition for Monaco's Art in Time retailer, the Chopard L.U.C Strike One "Art in Time" Edition stands as a testament to contemporary watchmaking prowess. Housed in a 40mm stainless steel case with a svelte profile of just 9.86mm, this timepiece seamlessly integrates form and function.
At its core lies the innovative L.U.C 96.32-L movement, a twin-barrel caliber offering a robust 65-hour power reserve. This movement is not only chronometer-certified but also bears the prestigious Poinçon de Genève hallmark, underscoring its precision and exceptional finishing.
The pièce de résistance is Chopard's patented monobloc sapphire gong, which chimes at the passing of each hour. This mechanism, activated by a pusher integrated into the crown, produces a refined auditory experience, marking 24 chimes daily.
Visually, the watch captivates with a pink salmon dial adorned with a hand-guillochéd honeycomb motif. A cut-out at the 1 o'clock position reveals the mirror-polished hammer responsible for the chime, offering a glimpse into the watch's intricate mechanics. The railway-style minutes track, engraved on the sapphire crystal, adds a touch of vintage charm, harmoniously blending tradition with modernity.
Lot 60: A Circa 1995 Girard-Perregaux Ref. 99500 Minute Repeater in Platinum, Number 0
Dating back to the 1990s, the Girard-Perregaux ref. 99500 Minute Repeater in platinum is a rare gem, possibly a prototype, as suggested by its unique "N.0" marking. This timepiece reflects Girard-Perregaux's storied history, which began in 1791 with Jean-François Bautte, a pioneer in uniting all watchmaking trades under one roof—a holistic approach that remains central to the brand's philosophy.
The watch features a 38mm platinum case, exuding a timeless and understated elegance. Its silver-grey guilloché dial, framed by a polished chapter ring with Roman numerals, speaks to classical aesthetics. The minute repeater, activated by a traditional slide mechanism, showcases the brand's technical prowess, producing a clear and resonant chime.
Turning the watch over reveals a sapphire crystal caseback, offering a window into the meticulously finished manual-winding caliber 9892 movement. The visible hammers strike the gongs—marked "H" for hours and "M" for minutes—allowing enthusiasts to appreciate the intricate dance of components that bring the chime to life.
Contrasting the Two
While both timepieces celebrate the art of chiming, they approach it from different angles:
Chopard's L.U.C Strike One introduces modern innovations, notably the monobloc sapphire gong and the integration of the chime pusher into the crown, reflecting a contemporary take on a chiming mechanism. In contrast, Girard-Perregaux's ref. 99500 adheres to classical watchmaking traditions, with its manual-winding movement and traditional slide activation for the minute repeater.
The Chopard watch boasts a modern 40mm stainless steel case with a striking salmon dial and honeycomb motif, appealing to those who appreciate contemporary design elements. The Girard-Perregaux, with its 38mm platinum case and silver-grey guilloché dial, offers a more classical and timeless appearance.
Chopard's approach with the Strike One is to chime at the top of every hour, providing a subtle reminder of time's passage throughout the day. Girard-Perregaux's minute repeater offers on-demand chimes, allowing the wearer to audibly experience the exact time at their discretion.
Why Collectors Should Care
The Chopard L.U.C Strike One "Art in Time" Edition is limited to a mere eight pieces, making it an exceptionally rare find. Its association with the Art in Time boutique in Monaco adds an extra layer of exclusivity. The Girard-Perregaux ref. 99500, possibly a prototype with its "N.0" marking, is equally elusive, offering a unique opportunity to own a piece of the brand's history.
Both watches showcase the brands' commitment to technical excellence. Chopard's patented innovations and chronometer-certified movement highlight its modern engineering capabilities. Girard-Perregaux's traditional minute repeater mechanism reflects centuries of accumulated watchmaking expertise.
The Chopard L.U.C Strike One "Art in Time" Edition and the Girard-Perregaux Ref. 99500 Minute Repeater are paragons of chiming watchmaking, each bringing a unique interpretation to the fore.
Whether one's preference leans towards modern innovation or classical tradition, both watches offer compelling reasons to be cherished additions to any discerning collector's repertoire.
You can view the complete catalog for the Phillips Geneva Sessions, Spring 2025, Online Auction, right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
About Logan Baker
Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.
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Affordable Independent Watches in the Phillips Geneva Sessions, Spring 2025, Online Auction