Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is thrilled to welcome you to The Geneva Sessions, Spring 2025, online auction, running from 12:00 PM CET, Wednesday, 5 March, to 2:00 PM CET, Wednesday, 12 March. Featuring 70 different high-end luxury wristwatches, the sale covers everything from A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe to Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, including all the watches featured below.
– By Logan Baker
There’s something irresistible about a blue-dialed watch.
Whether it’s the deep navy of a Patek Philippe Nautilus, the vibrant sunburst of a Grand Seiko, or the shimmering cerulean of an F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu, blue dials have an undeniable magnetism. But why? What is it about this particular color that continues to captivate collectors and enthusiasts alike?
To understand the fascination with blue dials, we need to dive into color theory, the psychology of blue, its historical significance in watchmaking, and the sheer variety of blues that grace the wrists of collectors worldwide. This is more than just a passing trend—it’s a deep-rooted, almost primal attraction to a color that evokes emotion, prestige, and timelessness.
The Psychology of Blue
Color plays an essential role in human perception and emotion. Blue is often associated with tranquility, trust, and intelligence. In fact, studies show that people tend to gravitate toward blue more than any other color. It’s the color of the sky and the ocean—two vast, seemingly infinite forces that inspire a sense of wonder and reliability.
For watch collectors, these qualities translate into a dial that feels both reassuring and dynamic. A blue dial can exude a calm, confident presence, making it an excellent choice for a dress watch, while also feeling sporty and robust enough for a diver or chronograph. It’s this duality—both refined and adventurous—that makes blue dials so versatile and appealing.
The History of Blue in Watchmaking
Blue’s history in watchmaking is as rich as it is varied. One of the earliest uses of blue in horology was on hands and markers—specifically, heat-blued steel. The technique of bluing steel, which involves carefully heating it to around 290°C, has been used since the 18th century to prevent rust while adding an elegant touch of color.
But blue dials as we know them today didn’t take off until the 20th century. In 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak made waves not only with its integrated bracelet design but also with its striking blue tapisserie dial. Suddenly, blue was no longer just a decorative accent—it was a statement. This was followed by Patek Philippe’s Nautilus in 1976, further cementing blue’s association with luxury sport watches.
Since then, blue dials have evolved to become a staple across brands, from Omega’s Seamaster collection to the myriad hues found in Grand Seiko’s legendary dial work. The advancements in dial manufacturing—ranging from enamel and lacquer to galvanic treatments—have only expanded the palette, allowing watchmakers to experiment with shades that shimmer, shift, and change depending on the light.
Beyond monetary value, collectors are drawn to blue dials because they offer something different. The market is flooded with black and silver dials—classic, yes, but predictable. A blue dial adds a touch of personality, a hint of individuality without straying too far from tradition. It’s a way for a collector to stand out subtly without the flashiness of a gold case or a skeleton dial.
The Future of Blue Dials in Watchmaking
While trends come and go, blue dials have proven their staying power. As independent brands push the boundaries of what’s possible with materials and finishes, we can expect to see even more innovative takes on blue dials. Perhaps the next frontier is watches that change shades of blue dynamically depending on lighting or temperature, or even deeper experimentation with textured surfaces that mimic ocean waves or the vastness of space.
Blue will continue to be a staple in both contemporary and vintage-inspired designs. Whether in a platinum-cased dress watch or a titanium-cased diver, it is a color that transcends categories, appealing to both purists and modern collectors alike.
The Enduring Appeal of Blue
At the end of the day, the reason collectors love blue dials isn’t just about aesthetics—it’s about emotion. A blue dial watch feels like an extension of its wearer: sophisticated, adaptable, and undeniably captivating. Whether you’re drawn to the historical significance, the versatility, or simply the way it catches the light on your wrist, one thing is certain—blue dials aren’t going anywhere.
So the next time you strap on your favorite blue-dialed watch, take a moment to appreciate why it speaks to you. Chances are, it’s not just the color itself, but everything it represents.
You can view the complete catalog for the Phillips Geneva Sessions, Spring 2025, Online Auction, right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
About Logan Baker
Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.
Recommended Reading
A Tale of Two Chimes: The Chopard L.U.C Strike One vs. Girard-Perregaux Ref. 99500
Affordable Independent Watches in the Phillips Geneva Sessions, Spring 2025, Online Auction
In-Depth: Inside The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon