– Arthur Touchot
Another glorious summer is coming to an end in Geneva. While the city will attract even more tourists in four months, summer is the best time to visit the Capital of Watchmaking. During the months of July and August, when the Lake is engorged with snowmelt and filled with sailboats, paddleboards, kayaks, and in between, swimmers trying desperately to cut straight lines to stay parallel with lake’s gravelly shores. From the water, you can see everything. On Rive Gauche: dog walkers traversing the Jardin Anglais, young families carrying picnic baskets into the Parc des Eaux-Vives, and tourists posing before the Jet d’Eau. On Rive Droite: university students jumping from the high diving boards of the Bains-des-Paquis, suits hurriedly crossing the Quai du Mont Blanc towards one city’s extremely prestigious hotels, and tourists posing before the Jet d’Eau, from a different and better angle (objectively). Next to them, a new feature has also become quite symbolic of Geneva in August: a big white tent with three words emblazoned in black and red: Geneva Watch Days.
GWD Presentation
Launched in 2020, the Geneva Watch Days is a tradeshow willed into existence by a small group of entrepreneurial executives following one of the most challenging periods for the Swiss watch industry: the outbreak of the Covid-19 virus. The subsequent and indefinite cancellations of the year's most pivotal trade exhibitions (SIHH and Baselworld) had thrust the watchmaking sector into a state of paralysis and great uncertainty.
Determined to put on a physical tradeshow to showcase their latest novelties to members of the press, retailers, and local collectors, eight watch brands conceived a novel concept: a decentralized and self-managed multi-brand watch event. The idea was immediately backed by the City of Geneva and the Geneva Chamber of Commerce, Industry, and Services (CCIG).
The CCIG’s Director, Vincent Subilia, says it was natural for the Chamber to support the event’s promotion: “Watchmaking is one of the economic sectors with which we spontaneously associate Geneva, and it is also highly dynamic, contributing significantly to job creation, economic value, and reputation enhancement. Therefore, it is only fitting that the Chamber takes on the role of promoting it.”
Bolstered by the measured optimism of the health community ahead of the summer months, an additional eleven brands would rally alongside the founding partners - Breitling, Bulgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie, MB&F, Ulysse Nardin, and Urwerk - to host the very first, and the ultimate, tradeshow of 2020.
With the news, later that year, of another imminent and indefinite shutdown, what initially transpired as a maverick endeavor aimed at doing something - anything - amidst the tumultuous landscape of 2020, would ultimately play a pivotal role in reshaping the dynamics of larger-scale tradeshows to come.
The GWD 2020 – The First Edition
No one knew what to expect from the first edition of the Geneva Watch Days, but it left everyone impressed. After what felt like an interminable separation, the fair had reconnected local professionals to the watches and the community they loved. It was a reunion that felt necessary in many ways. Like others working in service-based industries, those in the watchmaking field were growing weary of the endless cycle of virtual meetings. After months of screen-bound interactions, people were desperate for some genuine facetime.
The organizer’s decision to schedule the event at the end of August – at the same time as the reopening of their manufactures – also helped. The good weather that year certainly contributed to the enjoyment of the fair. Conversations were taking place outdoors, in the sun, with the stunning Lac Léman providing a picturesque backdrop behing the now iconic Pavillion. Brand executives embraced a more relaxed attire, opting for chic summer wear over their typical navy suits. Compared to other fairs, the GWD almost felt like being on holiday.
Among the first launches of the GWD was Bulgari's Aluminium (and Aluminium Chronograph), made by one of the fair’s earliest and strongest advocates. The timepiece exuded a laid-back, beach-inspired sports aesthetic and featured a rubber strap, perfectly capturing the fair's prevailing ambiance.
Given the challenges they faced and the speed with which they acted, the organizers’ ability to jerrybuild an entirely new concept (not to mention a 5,000 square foot tent on the Rotonde du Mont-Blanc) was truly commendable. If the event itself didn't include many on-site activations and had to follow a strict protocol established by the Canton of Geneva, the prioritization of safety was highly appreciated.
The fair’s innovative phygital format encountered minor glitches, leading to questions about its ability to create a captivating online experience for those unable to attend, but even then, the public’s interest in seeing the event improve was a hugely positive sign for the organizers.
Even if it didn’t initially have any ambition of returning in 2021, Geneva Watch Days had proven one significant idea: physical trade shows still had something valuable to offer. And an important announcement about Baselworld later in the year – following a new wave of COVID-19 cases and unrest among that show’s participants – would forever reset the GWD Committee’s plans.
The GWD 2021 – Year of Exploration
The GWD entered its sophomore year in 2021 with a cautiously optimistic outlook. In Switzerland, the number of COVID-19 cases had been stable since the start of the year and the fair could, this time, open its doors to the public. Preparations were made for a big reception thanks to the end of travel restrictions in most parts of Europe. City officials were again showing enthusiasm for the fair and its potential impact on tourism in Geneva.
And there was even more enthusiasm on the side of the brands. The watchmaking industry was showing signs of recovery compared to the challenging previous 12 months. While the effects of the pandemic continued to linger, consumer confidence started to improve. The belated but successful shift to e-commerce – following the mass adoption of online shopping across industries – also contributed to a more positive outlook for the industry.
Upholding its inclusive ethos, the GWD welcomed several new participants including brands previously committed to Baselworld and micro-brands that had emerged during COVID-19. And for the first time, the fair was joined by industry players with no previous tradeshow experience – such as PHILLIPS.
With the number of exhibiting brands jumping from 19 to 27, the GWD redesigned its Pavillion to host a larger exhibition. More than thirty display cases were installed inside the Pavilion to exhibit the participants’ latest watches, with guided tours organized to draw the public in. This evolution embodied the fair’s yearning for a more open and interactive event.
With this objective in mind, BVLGARI’s International Communications Director Catherine Eberle-Devaux kindly invited Phillips to host a series of round tables featuring prominent members of the watch community, including but not limited to the GWD committee.
I had the privilege of orchestrating these discussions, collaborating closely with my colleagues in Geneva to conceive a diverse array of talks designed to be inclusive. Since we weren’t sure who would attend the second edition of the GWD, we intended to craft conversations that would captivate both seasoned industry insiders and more recent enthusiasts. And it worked!
The talks drew in a captive audience, with many in the crowd actively engaged in the conversations with the panelists long after their closing remarks. This is how PHILLIPS unearthed a young expert: Amandine. Her incisive questions towards the conclusion of one of the talks caught everyone’s attention, eventually sparking a conversation involving Amandine, her father, Aurel, and myself. This dialogue laid the foundation for her video debut on PHILLIPS – and her introduction to the global community as a representative within her age group.
The second edition of the GWD confirmed the community’s growing interest in Geneva’s summer tradeshow. Attendance saw a substantial increase compared to the previous edition, with over 750 unique visitors and more than 300 professionals – still mostly hailing from Europe – all confirming their attendance.
Outside the Pavilion, a handful of recognizable names could now be spotted partaking in the fair in a less official capacity. The fair was developing an undeniable pull on the industry, and brands were now maneuvering around the GWD and coordinating their own events – a tactic with a longstanding tradition in the industry, and one that most GWD brands have used themselves.
Exhibitors, therefore, weren’t fazed by the extra noise. The more established brands continued to enjoy great press from the event, while the smaller brands also found their stride in a less crowded field using the GWD effectively as a global springboard for their products. The overall feedback at the end of the fair was once again very positive, and this time, the organizers were quick to announce a third edition.
With the fair’s momentum at an all-time high, and the imminent confirmation of Baselworld’s total ruin, Geneva had an opportunity to claim a strategic victory with not one but two prestigious watch fairs on either side of the calendar.
Geneva also hosts to the industry’s annual Awards ceremony, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), another event supported by the CCIG. “One can - immodestly - affirm that Geneva constitutes one (if not the) watchmaking capital of the world,” said Subilia. “The industrial sector, of which watchmaking is integral, constitutes 13 percent of the Canton's GDP. Several globally renowned leaders contribute significantly to it, thanks to their technical expertise and the innovation they have demonstrated for several generations.”
The GWD 2022 – The First Post-Covid-19 GWD
Preparations for the third edition of the GWD thus started ahead of usual. As major markets started gradually reopening their borders and easing travel restrictions during the winter of 2021, more brands previously committed to Baselworld joined the GWD, bringing the total to 33.
Bolstered by the arrival of new members, the GWD could finally break out the war chest. And it had to. For the first time since the fair's inception, Geneva would be able to invite the global watch community. Already, retailers and journalists in Asia and North America were extremely curious to understand the buzz this little tradeshow was generating.
The organizers did not have to wait long for the RSVPs. More than 700 professionals confirmed their attendance, which included an international press core more than double the size of the 2022 edition. This prompted strategic adjustments to enhance the overall experience for exhibitors and attendees, most notably, the expansion of the Pavilion to include 52 showcases.
Numerous engaging activities were also added to enhance the public’s experience, including guided tours, interactive round tables, and immersive workshops. Additionally, an impressive fleet of over 60 taxi-bikes were made available to give visitors an opportunity to pedal between the many events sprinkled across town.
These activities – which we captured for PHILLIPS in a series of Daily videos – created a friendly buzz among watch collectors and helped amplify the event’s popularity with local residents. Inside the Pavilion, unique visitors outnumbered industry professionals two-to-one, effectively overshadowing the increased presence of retailers and press members.
The investments made by the GWD on the show’s third edition had not gone unnoticed either. Important figures of the watchmaking industry, including executives of unaffiliated brands, could be seen throughout the week, visiting the Pavilion, and attending private events such as De Bethune’s screening of Seeking Perfect in one of the city’s upscale movie theatres.
By the end of the fair, the GWD had earned praise from both the public and the media. Quill & Pad called the third edition “seemingly flawless,” adding that the diversity and quality of the watches on show was “excellent”, while Hodinkee, Tatler Asia, and GQ showered the latest novelties with praise.
Three years after its introduction, and following a lengthy testing process, the organizers had successfully turned this once informal industry gathering into an all-inclusive watchmaking festival, “a bona fide event on the luxury watch calendar”, according to Robb Report.
The GWD 2023 – Senior Year, Mature Fair
The fourth edition of the GWD starts next week and already it promises to be a special one. With nearly forty watch brands taking part – thirteen of which are new – this year’s class will be the largest in GWD history. Meanwhile, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève and the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) have signed up to add a further institutional and cultural dimension to the fair.
Internally, some noteworthy changes make this edition different from years past. The GWD has a new committee – though the spirit remains unchanged, extremely collaborative – and expectations have once again been raised regarding attendance, with the bulk of the membership fees being invested into a bigger Pavilion with a new conference area, and a dedicated media center.
Held on Tuesday, August 29, the inauguration ceremony will mark the official start of the fair for brands, while the Pavilion will open its doors to the public from Wednesday, August 30, until Saturday, September 2, 2023. A series of symposiums will be held throughout the week, with most of the hosting duties falling on Wei Koh, the founder of Revolution. I am personally excited to share the stage with Wei on Wednesday – both times to speak with established names of the independent watchmaking scene. If that’s something you’re interested in, make sure to sign up here.
This year will also witness the launch of a new initiative, a special charity auction conceived by the committee in collaboration with Phillips. The auction will take place inside the Pavilion on August 30. The format will be familiar to those who make the pilgrimage to Geneva twice a year during the auction season. The offerings, however, will surprise many.
Instead of watches, 15 rare objects and experiences have been donated by members of the GWD. The primary purpose of these sales will be to generate funds for a novel scholarship at the Ecole d’Horlogerie de Genève. Among the items up for sale: a stay at the Bulgari Hotel in Rome, exclusive tickets for a one-on-one meeting with Breitling ambassador and Manchester City’s goal-scoring machine Erling Haaland, and various other unforgettable packages secured by watch brands through their extensive networks. The event will be ticketed, with in-room bidding facilitated through assigned paddles. Those interested may already review the catalogue and reserve a seat.
Once again, much of the activity will unfold across the city in boutiques and ad-hoc showrooms on either side of the lake, so it’s important to check the GWD website – which was recently refreshed – to make sure you don’t miss a thing.
Four years after the launch of the GWD, the tradeshow has achieved remarkable success. Beyond its unique position on the calendar, it has found a special place in the hearts of those who have attended As long as the fair is able to preserve the event’s unique atmosphere, the prevailing feeling is that it has potential to grow still and become “a source of pride for both the people of Geneva and the city,” as Subilia puts it.
Meanwhile the imminent announcement of a major new partner should once again shake things up in 2024. At this rate, the committee might have to explore new venues seriously, but for now, the Pavilion on the Rotonde du Mont Blanc stands as a symbol of the industry’s collaborative and innovative spirit, a stage for watch enthusiasts to gather in front of while the rest of the industry is OOO, and most of all another great reason to visit Geneva during the Summer.
We would like to thank Bulgari for supplying images of the Geneva Watch Days throughout the show's different editions.
About Arthur Touchot
Arthur Touchot is a former journalist who specialized in the luxury market. Having earned a master’s degree in journalism at Northwestern University, Arthur combined his love of watches and words by becoming a regular contributor to The New York Times and the Financial Times at the start of his career, later becoming senior European editor at Hodinkee. In 2017, Arthur joined Phillips as International Head of Digital Strategy to lead the global content and digital marketing strategy of the auction house’s watch department, and has been involved in bringing some of the world’s rarest timepieces to auction.
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