An unconventional watch with twin retrograde hands in the form of a compass, the Vacheron Constantin Mercator was introduced in 1994, commemorating the 400th anniversary of Gerardus Mercator’s passing. When the CEO of Vacheron Constantin at the time, Claude-Daniel Proellochs, was presented with this idea, the executive was instantly captivated by the intriguing design and thus solidified their decade-long partnership in producing the Mercator. According to the archives, only 638 pieces were made in those 10 years, with a handful of different variants, depicting different corners of the globe. The Mercator dials are signed with “J&L Genbrugge”– an uncommon practice, considering brands have historically kept enamellers in the shadows. Much sought-after for its bi-retrograde time display, the center piece of the watch is no doubt its dial, where art and history meet.

As previously mentioned, Mercator watches often feature maps of various continents, such as Africa, Europe and Asia. What sets the present example apart is its exquisitely hand-crafted polychrome champlevé enamel dial, which depicts the twelve animals of the Chinese zodiac encircling a radiant sun at the center. On the reverse, the watch reveals a 21K gold rotor edge engraved with “1594 – Gerard Mercator – 1994,” commemorating the cartographer’s legacy. Time is elegantly indicated by hands shaped like the legs of an early hand-held marine compass, reminiscent of the instruments Mercator himself might have used. According to Vacheron Constantin, 18 watch cases for this reference were produced but only 15 watches were successfully produced in record. With only two other examples known publicly in the auction market, the present example is the third to appear and fresh-to-the-market, it is exceptionally well-preserved and accompanied by its original accessories.