29Σ︎

Urban Jürgensen

Reference 2 "Moon Face"

An attractive and rare pink gold perpetual calendar wristwatch with hand engraved moonphases and fitted box

CHF25,000–50,000
€26,700–53,500
$30,100–60,100
Urban Jürgensen
Circa 1990
Dial engraved N°32
Reference 2 "Moon Face"
18k pink gold
Automatic, cal. FP 71, 35 jewels
Leather
18k pink gold Urban Jürgensen pin buckle
38mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed
Accompanied by Urban Jürgensen instruction manual in german, fitted box and outer packaging.
Good to Know:

- Perpetual calendar with day, date, month and moon-phase indications
- Featuring a hand engraved moonphase, something that was not available in the regular production models
- Numbered 32 of the limited Reference 2 production, and the 5th in pink gold known to come to auction

The Reference 2 belongs to the period in which Urban Jürgensen was being rebuilt around a very particular idea of watchmaking. Under Peter Baumberger, and with Derek Pratt involved in the development of the watches, the brand returned to traditional craftsmanship while incorporating the technical possibilities of modern production. The result was a small series of highly individual watches that combined old-fashioned handwork with sophisticated, ultra-thin movements.

The present Reference 2 is a particularly attractive example, distinguished by its pink gold case and carefully balanced perpetual calendar dial. The indications for the day and month are arranged horizontally, while the date and moon phases sit on the vertical axis, giving the watch a calm and remarkably ordered appearance. The satin-finished outer track, Roman numerals and hand-guilloché centre complete the classical design.

Much of the appeal lies in the quality of the dial work. The engine-turned centre is framed by the satin outer track, while the subsidiary indications feature their own guilloché decoration. The calendar apertures are also recessed into the dial rather than simply cut with sloping edges, a small detail that adds considerably to the finished appearance.

One element of importance that set the watch truly apart is the hand engraved moon face that has not been found on any other model and which was certainly a special order.

The present pink-gold example, numbered 32, is particularly appealing for its warm case colour, beautifully executed dial and the quiet, highly refined character that defines the best watches from this important period of the brand.

Urban Jürgensen

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