Rolex - The New York Watch Auction: SEVEN New York Saturday, December 10, 2022 | Phillips

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  • Condition Report

  • Description

    View our Conditions of Sale.

  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1975
    Reference No: 1665
    Movement No: D’931’220
    Case No: 4’048’976; inside caseback stamped with repeated serial number
    Model Name: Sea-Dweller “Double Red”
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 93150, end links stamped 580, max length 205mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex folding clasp, stamped “S” and “CL4”
    Dimensions: 40mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet, and clasp signed.
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex service card and presentation box.

  • Catalogue Essay

    When the Rolex Submariner was launched in 1954, it represented Rolex’s answer to the demands of the fast-growing community of recreational scuba divers – at the time, a novel sport. Soon, however, the company realized that it could also provide diver’s watches to professional institutions - such as COMEX - and began a collaborative Research & Development process with these companies to adapt the Submariner to the stricter requirements of professional diving endeavors such as testing them in new, underwater habitats. The results of this process was a series of “upgraded” Submariner watches featuring improved water resistance and, at times, the Helium Escape Valve, developed to prevent their crystals from popping out during decompression.

    In 1971, a civilian version of these timepieces was launched with the Sea-Dweller line, the name inspired by the underwater habitats into which the scientists, and their watches, would dwell for extended periods of time.

    The present piece belongs to this line of highly advanced divers’ wristwatches, and it is an example from the so-called “Double Red” series, featuring two lines of red text. Interestingly, the earliest examples of reference 1665 bear either the last three digits or - such as the present watch - the full serial number inside the caseback, a highly unusual detail for a standard production Rolex wristwatch. Normally, such a practice was adopted by the company for special order timepieces.

    Of the different iterations of “DRSD” dials established by the collecting community, this exceptional example from 1975 is fitted with a well-preserved Mark III dial, with the red lettering of “Sea-Dweller | Submariner 2000” printed directly on the dial, “closed” 6s, thicker fonts, and a certain shape coronet. The condition of the dial is superb, with the black matte finishing perfectly intact, and the luminous hour markers also perfectly preserved, displaying the characteristic waffle texture and creamy hue.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

    View More Works

76

Ref. 1665
A rare and attractive stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with date, bracelet, “Mark III” dial, service card, and presentation box

Circa 1975
40mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet, and clasp signed.

Estimate
$20,000 - 40,000 
CHF19,000-38,000
€19,300-38,700
HK$157,000-313,000
S$27,500-55,100

Place Advance Bid
Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros

Head of Watches, Americas

+1 (212) 940-1293

[email protected]

 

Isabella Proia

Head of Sale, New York

+1 (212) 940 1285

[email protected]

 

The New York Watch Auction: SEVEN

New York Auction 10 - 11 December 2022