Rolex - The New York Watch Auction: X New York Saturday, June 8, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1969
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: D'590'911
    Case No: 2’412’924
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max approx. length 215mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp, marked “18K” and “Hecho in Mexico”
    Dimensions: 40mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed. Clasp further signed “Hecho in Mexico”.
    Accessories: Accompanied by two additional bracelet links.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The Rolex Submariner has become such an icon that not only can it be considered the benchmark for all future diving watches, but it has also spawned its own scholarly following devoted to every nuance and variation from its first appearance in the Rolex catalogue in 1954 until the present day. The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 was launched in 1967 and was the first Submariner model fitted with a date function. Soon to follow in 1969, Rolex introduced the first Submariner to be produced in 18K yellow gold. The model would eventually be produced with an option of either a blue dial with blue bezel insert or black dial with black bezel insert, like the present model.

    Preserved in most probably unpolished condition, the present 1680 in 18K yellow gold is fitted with a so-called “nipple” dial (or “bicchierini”, Italian for “little cups”), for the conical gold markers with a small lume-filled opening at the top. Though the earliest gold Submariners are characterized by a “meters first” dial, beginning around the 2.4 million serial number, the designation was reversed and subsequent dials would be printed “feet first”, like the present watch which bears an early 2.41 million serial number.

    Adding interest and rarity, this reference 1680 is accompanied by a very rare 18K yellow gold President bracelet marked “Hecho in Mexico”. Denoting its fabrication in Mexico under the specifications of Rolex, this President bracelet was most certainly a special order at the time of original sale considering the bracelet’s endlinks are perfectly shaped for the case.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 1680
A rare, well-preserved, and attractive yellow gold automatic diver's wristwatch with center seconds, date, "nipple" dial, and "Hecho in Mexico" bracelet

Circa 1969
40mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed. Clasp further signed “Hecho in Mexico”.

$20,000 - 40,000 

Sold for $38,100

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Americas
+1 (212) 940-1293

Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, New York
+1 (212) 940 1285

The New York Watch Auction: X

New York Auction 8 - 9 June 2024