Rolex - The New York Watch Auction: EIGHT New York Saturday, June 10, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 2019
    Reference No: 116659SABR
    Case No: M’764L’746
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: 18K white gold, diamonds, sapphires
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K white gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, max length approx. 220mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 2HD
    Dimensions: 41mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex international guarantee card dated June 7th, 2019, instruction manual, warranty manual, leather card holder, wax hang tag, fitted presentation box, and outer box.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The raison d’être of the Rolex Submariner is without a doubt rooted in the exploration of the oceanic depth: it was devised first and foremost as a professional timepiece and simultaneously marketed to the public too, following the rise of scuba diving as a recreational activity in the 1950s.

    With that in mind, it is easy to understand the intellectual irony of the present timepiece. In only half a century, what was once considered a professional timepiece has transcended this original vocation, and turned into one of the most recognized, appreciated, and iconic timepieces made by any brand.

    The fact that Rolex decided to take this utilitarian tool watch and beset it with gems indicates how much the market for the Submariner has evolved. Interestingly, among the professional line of Rolex timepieces, only the GMT, the Daytona and the Submariner - arguably the most recognizable models made by the brand – have ever been bedecked in such a bedazzling fashion.

    Beyond being a true testament to the evolution of the Submariner, the timepiece is aesthetically simply superb: the blue sapphires and white diamonds perfectly complementing each other and offer remarkable legibility, a rare trait in a gem-set piece. The final layer of appeal for the collector is given by the impossible rarity of this model: Rolex highly restricted the output of gem-set pieces in recent years, making the few specimens that leave the manufacture as some of the most fiercely sought-after watches currently in production.

    To add an amusing touch, the present example was purchased during the carefree summer of 2019, in the seaside town of Portofino on the Italian Riviera. A more appropriate watch for Portofino in the summer would be hard to countenance, and the present watch is well-preserved and accompanied by all its original accessories.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

    View More Works

105

Ref. 116659SABR
An audacious and impressive white gold, diamond, and sapphire-set wristwatch with date, bracelet, guarantee, and presentation box

2019
41mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate
$100,000 - 200,000 
CHF90,000-180,000
€92,400-185,000
HK$782,000-1,560,000
S$134,000-269,000

Sold for $146,050

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Head of Watches, Americas
+1 (212) 940-1293
WatchesNY@Phillips.com
 
Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, New York
+1 (212) 940 1285
iproia@phillips.com

The New York Watch Auction: EIGHT

New York Auction 10 - 11 June 2023