Rolex - The New York Watch Auction: EIGHT New York Saturday, June 10, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1985
    Reference No: 16800
    Movement No: 1’284’376
    Case No: 8’657’735, repeated inside case back and stamped 16800
    Model Name: Submariner “COMEX”
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1520, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped 93150, end links stamped 501B, max overall length 210m
    Clasp/Buckle: Rolex stainless steel deployant flip lock clasp stamped 93150 and VE
    Dimensions: 40mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex International Service Guarantee dated August 31, 2004, Rolex UK service invoice dated August 31, 2004, green leather presentation box, hang tags, polish cloth, product literature and outer packaging.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Rolex’s first Submariner wristwatch was released in 1953 with the reference 6204, and has become an iconic wristwatch with many iterations over the decades. Today it remains one of the most sought after tool watches of all times. In 1967, the brand introduced the reference 1680, the first Submariner with a date function, and in 1979 Rolex released the reference 16800 model featuring an upgraded sapphire crystal with a redesigned unidirectional bezel, quick-set date function, and an improved depth rating from 200 meters to 300 meters. Initially released with a matte dial and luminous indices, the model remained in production until 1988, with later examples featuring a glossy, lacquered dial with luminous white gold hour markers like the present watch.

    Rolex timepieces have long been used as tool watches by professionals. One of the best known associations was between Rolex and COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertise) based in Marseilles, France. Rolex exclusively supplied different Submariner and Sea-Dweller models to their specialist divers with most watches marked ‘COMEX’ on the dial and numbered on the case back. They were exclusively reserved for the firm and never available to the public for purchase.

    The present reference 16800 is preserved in excellent condition retaining its factory original bevels and finished surfaces, with the case back’s engraved issue number “6160” crisp. It’s glossy, lacquered dial features the coveted COMEX logo at 6 o’clock, and has developed very pleasing spidering – subtle fissures on the lacquered surface collectors have nicknamed as “spider dials.” The case back is further personalized with the inscription “B. J. Fletcher 1974-1984”, indicating it was likely gifted to Mr. Fletcher for 10 years of service. The inside of the case back is engraved with the full serial number found between the lugs consistent with other issued Rolex watches of the era. The Rolex COMEX relationship is well documented and this COMEX Submariner reference 16800 with Rolex international service guarantee and Rolex UK service receipt dated 2004 is a wonderful opportunity for the discerning collector.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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103

Ref. 16800
A rare and fine stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with date, “spider dial”, bracelet, service guarantee, presentation box, and hang tags, made for COMEX

1985
40mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate
$40,000 - 80,000 
CHF36,000-72,000
€37,000-74,000
HK$313,000-625,000
S$53,800-108,000

Sold for $107,950

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Head of Watches, Americas
+1 (212) 940-1293
WatchesNY@Phillips.com
 
Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, New York
+1 (212) 940 1285
iproia@phillips.com

The New York Watch Auction: EIGHT

New York Auction 10 - 11 June 2023