Rolex - The New York Watch Auction: EIGHT New York Saturday, June 10, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1988
    Reference No: 16528, inside caseback stamped 16500
    Movement No: 10’463
    Case No: R'985’792
    Model Name: Cosmograph Daytona, Porcelain “Floating”
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, endlinks stamped 103, max overall length 200mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold deployant clasp stamped 78668
    Dimensions: 40mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex guarantee dated November 11, 1989, wooden presentation box, leather wallet, product literature, and outer packaging.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Rolex’s first automatic Daytona was introduced in 1988, housing the iconic Zenith-based caliber 4030. The model featured a larger, 40mm case and was also the brand’s first chronograph fitted with a sapphire crystal. This new Daytona immediately became a cult classic and garnered an immediate waiting list at Rolex retailers. The gold version reference 16528 was a luxurious alternative to its stainless steel counterpart reference 16520.

    First generation examples like the present watch displayed the “Cosmograph” designation separated and floating below the “Rolex Oyster Perpetual Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” text at 12 o’clock. This variant is known as the “floating dial”. During the model’s initial production years, the dials were made with white lacquer. A key feature of so-called ‘porcelain dials’ is the three-dimensional appearance of the black graphics and slightly off-white color of the dial’s background. However, probably due to the most likely high costs associated with their production, very few were made. This timepiece is also fitted with its original early bezel, which is calibrated to 200 units, and like early examples, the dial has an inverted “6” on the 12-hour register.

    The present example from 1988 has an attractive case with full proportions and crisp hallmarks. The dial is well preserved and free from any visible defects. Rolex’s Daytona is a horological icon today, and these early versions are highly sought after. Furthermore, it’s offered as a complete set, accompanied with its original, punched guarantee and inner and outer boxes. This is a rare opportunity to one of the most sought after, first-generation automatic Daytona chronographs.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

    View More Works

101

Ref. 16528, inside caseback stamped 16500
An extremely rare and well preserved yellow gold chronograph wristwatch with so-called “porcelain” dial with “floating” logo, bracelet, guarantee and presentation box

1988
40mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate
$70,000 - 140,000 
CHF63,000-126,000
€64,700-129,000
HK$547,000-1,090,000
S$94,100-188,000

Sold for $101,600

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Head of Watches, Americas
+1 (212) 940-1293
WatchesNY@Phillips.com
 
Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, New York
+1 (212) 940 1285
iproia@phillips.com

The New York Watch Auction: EIGHT

New York Auction 10 - 11 June 2023