Rolex - The New York Watch Auction: EIGHT New York Saturday, June 10, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1989
    Reference No: 18238
    Case No: L'372'453
    Model Name: Day-Date “Malachite”
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, max overall length 165mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp, reference 8385, stamped N5
    Dimensions: 36mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex guarantee card dated November 1989, chronometer certification pamphlet, leather wallet, and fitted presentation box.

  • Catalogue Essay

    From its introduction in 1956, the Day-Date has continued to embody the Rolex ethos of luxury and quality. Myriad combinations were made possible by the variety of dials and case materials, the array of bezel patterns and the different bracelet assortments. The true attraction of this particular Day-Date, aside from its superb original condition, is the vibrant dial made of malachite.

    Malachite was first known to be mined as early as the Neolithic era, around 3,800 years ago, in an area of limestone headland in Wales, Great Britain. Since antiquity, malachite has been utilized in decorative arts and adornments for its vivid green palette and spectacular banded and swirled patterns. Malachite was even ground and used as paint pigments, most notably by Italian Renaissance painter Pietro Perugino in his Natività located in the Church of Saint Francis in Montefalco, Peruggia. Typically, the most harmonious and attractive banded specimens of malachite are found in Central African deposits. This specific malachite dial displays beautiful uniform bands, made by slicing and polishing larger banded mass of malachite. Rolex must have been highly selective in choosing the specific slice of malachite, further affirming their mastery of fabricating such delicate natural materials for use as watch dials.

    Launched in 1988, the reference 18238 was the first to incorporate a double quick-set function for its day and date adjustments. The present example is in exceptionally well-preserved condition, with the quintessential fluted bezel and President bracelet, and is enhanced impressively by the presence of its original guarantee card and presentation box.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 18238
A stunning, well-preserved, and extremely rare yellow gold wristwatch with day and date apertures, malachite hardstone dial, bracelet, guarantee, and presentation box

Circa 1989
36mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate
$35,000 - 70,000 
CHF31,500-63,000
€32,400-64,700
HK$274,000-547,000
S$47,100-94,100

Sold for $82,550

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Head of Watches, Americas
+1 (212) 940-1293
WatchesNY@Phillips.com
 
Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, New York
+1 (212) 940 1285
iproia@phillips.com

The New York Watch Auction: EIGHT

New York Auction 10 - 11 June 2023