Rolex timepieces have long been admired by collectors for their timeless designs and robust, ingenious movements. Many of the brand’s models were made for a specific use, and whether it’s a Submariner dive watch, a Milgauss for use within electromagnetic fields, or a GMT-Master dual-time wristwatch, they are icons of 20th century horology. Most known for such sporty watches made mostly in stainless steel, two exceptional mid-20th century models are as iconic as their counterparts, and far rarer. For a few short years in the early 1950s, Rolex produced two triple calendar wristwatches with moon phase, the references 8171 and 6062 – highly complicated watches that were a true departure for the brand . The reference 8171, known by its Italian nickname, “Padellone” (large frying pan), is one of the most sought after by collectors, revered for its large case size, perfectly legible dial, and superb proportions.
Reference 8171 impresses not only with its large 38mm diameter, especially when considering that a large gentleman’s watch in the 1950s was around 35mm, but in particular with its harmonious case proportions and sharp edges, facets, and angles. As a consequence, the 8171 case is breathtaking when well-preserved, such as the current lot. On the opposite side of the scale, when subjected to repeated and unprofessional polishing, most of its charm and beauty is lost.
Cased in yellow gold, it has been spared needless polishing, with the case number and Rolex crown logo remaining strong and crisp on the caseback – these are notoriously susceptible to rubbing off or disappearing with any unskilled polishing. The brushed finishing to the sides of the case and lugs is still beautifully present, as are the hallmarks on the case band and underneath the bottom right lug. Its early, non-luminous two-tone dial, with “Officially Certified Chronometer” designation at 6 o’clock, is completely original with pleasant aging having developed mainly on the outer circumference. The inner, grained dial section is remarkably clean and well preserved.
Rolex’s Padellone is a significant timepiece for collectors ticking so many boxes for classic collecting. It is a wristwatch that is rare, classic, timeless, and exceedingly difficult to find in well-preserved condition. The present example is fresh-to-the-market, and has a charisma and appeal that is sure to excite watch connoisseurs.