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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1970
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: D675581
    Case No: 2’413’391; inside caseback stamped I.70
    Model Name: Submariner “Red Sub”
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet reference 93150, end links stamped 580, maximum length 225mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped VC
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex punched guarantee paper, product literature, polishing cloth, hangtag, gilt anchor, and inner and outer presentation boxes. Also accompanied by additional crown, gear, spring bars, and crystal.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The Rolex Submariner has become such an icon that not only can it be considered the benchmark for all future diving watches, but it has also spawned its own scholarly following devoted to every nuance and variation from its first appearance in the Rolex catalogue in 1954 until the present day. The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 was launched in 1967 and was the first Submariner model fitted with a date function (generating a fiery debate about date windows that continues to burn brightly in the watch community).

    Of the different iterations of “Red Submariner” dials established by the collecting community, this exceptional example from the first quarter of 1970 is fitted with a pristine Mark III “meter’s first” dial, with the red lettering of Submariner printed directly on the dial, “open” 6s, and a thicker font. The serial number beginning with 2.41 is correct for a Mark III dial, a rare occurrence. The condition of the dial is superb, with the black matte finishing perfectly intact, and the luminous hour markers also perfectly preserved, displaying the characteristic waffle texture and creamy hue.

    The "Red Sub" is the ideal contender for a one watch collection – subtle enough not to draw attention, but with a flash of flair with the red "Submariner" print to add interest. Amongst the finest “Red” Submariners Phillips has ever offered, the present example further displays an unpolished case and is a rare and complete treasure, accompanied by its original guarantee and presentation box.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 1680
An attractive and rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with Mark III dial, bracelet, original guarantee, and presentation boxes

Circa 1970
39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate
$20,000 - 40,000 
CHF17,900-35,700
€16,500-33,100
HK$155,000-310,000

Sold for $70,560

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Head of Watches, Americas & International Strategy Advisor
Senior Vice President
+1 212 940 1293
[email protected]

Racing Pulse

New York Auction 12 December 2020