Rolex - STYLED. Timeless Watches & How to Wear Them New York Wednesday, December 5, 2018 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1964
    Reference No: 5512, inside case back stamped 5513, III.64
    Movement No: 47'188
    Case No: 1'178'502
    Model Name: Submariner "4-Liner"
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1560, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Later stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, stamped 78360, end links stamped 558, max length 205mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped VC
    Dimensions: 39.5mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
    Accessories: With original Rolex green leather presentation box, Rolex anchor, Rolex hang tag and product literature.
    Literature: For a similar example of reference 5512 with black gloss dial, please see 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, page 186.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Rolex’s Submariner wristwatch has long been one of the brand’s most successful models, with production running continuously since being officially launched at Basel in 1954. Along with the dual time GMT-Master, it is a model that has been studied, researched, and meticulously documented over the last two decades, and has a long lineage of predecessors forming a unique timeline that not only illustrates the history of the timepiece, but the history of the brand and its design development. The first three Submariner models released were the 6204 and 6205, both water resistant to 100 meters, along with the reference 6200, a professional diver’s watch rated for dives to 200 meters. These early models featured pared down dials with little dial text other than “Rolex Oyster Perpetual”, and were sometimes fitted with pencil-shaped hands, a long ‘Mercedes’ hour hand, lollipop seconds hand, and for the ref. 6200 and its successors, the ref. 6538 and 5510, a “Big Crown” for easy winding and setting. Within a few short years, the model had gone under several modifications and by 1959, Rolex released the references 5512 and 5513, which were the first models to feature the now ubiquitous crown guards.

    The present “4-liner” reference 5512 features its stunning and original “Swiss T<25” black glossy dial with gilt signature and silver gilt “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” (SCOC) designation at 6 o’clock. While both the reference 5512 and 5513 featured the same case and bracelet, the reference 5512 had a movement that had been tested and certified for accuracy and precision by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, and it is this additional two lines added to the dial that sets the reference 5512 from its contemporary counterpart, the reference 5513. Offered in lovely condition with a well preserved case, and vibrant, glossy dial with nicely matching hands and hour markers, it is a classic icon that has stood the test of time and continues to do so today. Offered with its original box, gilt anchor, hang tag, and brochure, it’s a lovely collectors’ example that is ideally suited for both casual and formal wear.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 5512, inside case back stamped 5513, III.64
A fine and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with "four-line" black gloss dial and bracelet, with presentation box, brochure, and hang tags

39.5mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

$15,000 - 25,000 

Sold for $33,750

Contact Specialist
Paul Boutros
Head of Watches, Americas
+1 212 940 1293

STYLED. Timeless Watches & How to Wear Them

New York Auction 5 December 2018