A highly attractive and rare stainless steel wristwatch with Mark 1 dial, faded bezel, and bracelet, accompanied with presentation box, guarantee, booklets, and hangtag

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1969
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: D'361'740
    Case No: 2’154’167, inner caseback stamped II.69
    Model Name: Submariner Date, "Red Sub"
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet reference 9315, end links stamped 280, max length 230mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped 4-70
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex inner and outer boxes, punched Guarantee, product literature, small leather wallet, hang tag, and silver anchor.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The Rolex Submariner has become such an icon that not only can it be considered the benchmark for all future diving watches, but it has also spawned its own scholarly following devoted to every nuance and variation from its first appearance in the Rolex catalogue in 1954 until the present day. The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 was launched in 1967 and was the first Submariner model fitted with a date function (likely generating a fiery debate about date windows that continues to burn brightly in the watch community).

    Of the seven different iterations of "Red Submariner" dials, established by the collecting community, the present example is fitted with a rare and exceptional Mark I "meters first" dial, with closed "6", overhanging "f" in the depth rating, and the red lettering of Submariner printed over white. Both the luminous material on the dial and the dial itself have aged beautifully, with the luminous material acquiring a delightful warm patina, and the dial remaining untouched and uniform. The case is presented in outstanding, original condition, having never seen a polishing and with all of its original factory finishing, curves, bevels, and contours present.

    The "Red Sub" is the ideal contender for a one watch collection – subtle enough not to draw attention, but with a flash of flair with the red "Submariner" print to add interest. It is ideal for the boardroom, a weekend in the country, or an evening out. Not only is this an attractive and stunningly preserved example of a coveted reference, but it comes complete with all of its original accessories including punched guarantee papers – a rare opportunity for the elite collector.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Rolex

Ref. 1680
A highly attractive and rare stainless steel wristwatch with Mark 1 dial, faded bezel, and bracelet, accompanied with presentation box, guarantee, booklets, and hangtag

1969
39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate
$15,000 - 25,000 
CHF15,000-24,900
€13,000-21,700
HK$118,000-196,000

sold for $62,500

Contact Specialist
Paul Boutros
Head of Watches, Americas
+1 212 940 1293
pboutros@phillips.com

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