Rolex - TOKI: Watch Auction Hong Kong Friday, November 22, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1962
    Reference No: 5508, repeated inside caseback and stamped “II.62”
    Movement No: 91’942
    Case No: 763’316
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1530, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “7206”, endlinks stamped “80”, max length 185mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “4.61”
    Dimensions: 37mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by purchasing invoice from Watch CTI, Ginza dated 10th December 2007, repair invoice from Okutokei Watch Shop dated 15th March 2008 and handwritten letter of gratitude.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The “Small Crown” Submariner ref. 5508 was produced from 1958 to 1962 and is notable for being the last model to bear the "100m=330ft" depth rating without a crown guard, before transitioning to the iconic ref. 5513. This particular example, dating from circa 1962, hails from one of the last batches produced and is a remarkable sight to behold after more than 60 years.

    The beautifully aged glossy black lacquered dial has transformed into a stunning chocolate color, with all text perfectly preserved. The brown hue radiates outward, darkening at the periphery, reminiscent of a brown fumé dial. The small dot at 6 o’clock designates this iteration as an “exclamation mark” dial. These dials were only in production for a brief period between 1961 and 1962 and represent one of Rolex’s first efforts to indicate a lower radiation count compared to earlier dials.

    It was serviced by the authorized Rolex dealer Okutokei Watch Shop in 2008. As an officially certified Rolex repairer as well, the Okutokei overhauled the watch, maintaining it in excellent condition. In appreciation for the trust placed in them for servicing this important timepiece, Okutokei even provided a handwritten letter to the owner expressing their gratitude.

    An icon in the world of horology, this early Submariner was produced in only 9,000 pieces as confirmed by Rolex during its short production period, making it a wonderful addition to any vintage Submariner collection.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Property of a Japanese Collector

24

Ref. 5508, repeated inside caseback and stamped “II.62”
An extremely attractive and well-preserved stainless steel diver's wristwatch with center seconds, no crown guards, "tropical" lacquer "exclamation" dial and bracelet

Circa 1962
37mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$320,000 - 640,000 
€37,500-75,100
$41,000-82,100

Sold for HK$609,600

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2030
WatchesHK@phillips.com

Gertrude Wong
Head of Sale, Hong Kong
+852 2318 2045
gertrudewong@phillips.com

TOKI: Watch Auction

Hong Kong Auction 22 November