Rolex - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX Hong Kong Saturday, November 23, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1957
    Reference No: 6538, repeated inside caseback and stamped “III.57”
    Movement No: N763’236
    Case No: 307’593
    Model Name: Submariner "Big Crown"
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1030, 25 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel expandable riveted Rolex bracelet, endlinks stamped “58”, max length 180mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped "3.60"
    Dimensions: 38mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Literature: Another example of the reference 6538 is prominently illustrated in Oyster Perpetual Submariner - The Watch that Unlocked the Deep by Nicholas Foulkes, page 137.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Reference 6538 is forever immortalized on screen, having accompanied Sean Connery’s James Bond on multiple secret missions. Most notably, Bond’s gadget is disguised as a "Big Crown" Submariner in films like “Dr. No”, “From Russia with Love”, and “Goldfinger”. As a result, reference 6538 is now widely known among Rolex collectors and scholars as the "James Bond Submariner".

    First launched in 1954 and produced in 2,800 examples, reference 6538 is highly desirable today due to its versatility, robust proportions, and attractive design. Produced for only four years, it features a black lacquer "Swiss"-signed dial, lack of crown guards, and has an 8mm Brevet crown, categorizing it as a "Big Crown Submariner" together with reference 6200 and 5510.

    Originally designed as a tool watch for both Mr. Bond and numerous professional and amateur divers, many 6538s did not survive the test of time unscathed. It was common to replace worn parts such as crowns, dials, and bezels with service replacements to ensure optimal functionality. This practice, combined with the limited production timeframe, has resulted in a scarce number of pieces available in fully original and well-preserved condition. The present example, however, belongs to this rare category.

    With a 307’xxx serial number, this watch features a 3rd series dial that boasts the return of gilt printing for the Submariner designation. The addition of 15-minute markers on the bezel likely resulted from feedback from professional and military divers who used the reference 6538 and required more precise timing during critical moments of a dive. This may also explain the big “lollipop” second hand, painted white for improved legibility.

    The quality of the dial on this timepiece is exceptional. It retains its original glossy finish and luminous material, now a charming creamy hue. Signs of aging can be observed under specific lighting, where parts of the dial are beginning to develop a subtle tropical patina, confirming the originality of the piece without compromising its aesthetic appeal. The correct "red triangle" bezel is also in outstanding condition, exhibiting only minor losses of red paint due to aging.

    According to Rolex, the production quantity of the ref. 6538 is limited to a scarce 2,800 pieces. Fresh to the market, it is exceptionally rare to see another well-preserved example to resurface. We are extremely honored to offer this significant Submariner reference, originally created for professionals.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

    View More Works

908

Ref. 6538, repeated inside caseback and stamped “III.57”
A very early, well-preserved and highly rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, gilt black dial, big crown and bracelet

Circa 1957
38mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$550,000 - 1,560,000 
€67,200-191,000
$70,500-200,000

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2030
WatchesHK@phillips.com
 

Gertrude Wong
Head of Sale, Hong Kong
+852 2318 2045
gertrudewong@phillips.com
 

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX

Hong Kong Auction 23 - 24 November 2024